Mesquitebean

Speedtigger, What was the price for the Mast pan? and what did it include?

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

$440. Oil pan and pick up tube. It requires an LS3 dipstick tube assembly as from a 2010 Camaro. The dipstick tube is not included. It cost about $40.

Beau@SDPC

iTrader: (14)

Even if I marked the '10 Camaro tube up 100% over norm, it would not be $40.
Looks like $18.95 on our end.....

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

$40 is for the tube, the dipstick and two O-rings. Since mine will not be in until Saturday, you could post the part numbers for those 4 items for other guys considering this pan.

Beau@SDPC

iTrader: (14)

Why would you need 2 o rings? Hmm. What you said was just the dipstick tube. I was just trying to offer a cheaper alternative to that one if they use a stock part. Since its more than that, the cost is somewhat justified then.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

The exploded view showed 4 parts.
Dipstick tube
Dipstick
o-ring that goes on the top of the dipstick
o-ring that goes on the bottom of the dipstick tube

Now both the dipstick and the tube may have the o-ring included; I don't know. If they do, I can send the extras back.

Beau@SDPC

iTrader: (14)

If they come from GM, they come with o rings. The dipstick from us runs 16.50.

Mesquitebean

The website pictures show a windage tray also. Let us know if it doesnt show up. Dont forget a new gasket, however i have heard you can reuse them several times.

Wonder how much the Holley pan will be?

mantycarguy

Just a quick annoucement, JZMotorworks has been acquired by Holley Performance. We will no longer be offering this oil pan for purchase as our inventory has now been depleted. Please visit Holleys website to view an updated version of this cast aluminum pan.Thanks to all in past who purchased our product. Mark Zich

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (25)

So, i am assuming the F body pan is not a cure all for 95% of the swaps? Worked in my 89 F car.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

Hits the crossmember in the A-body cars.

ShiftyCapone

iTrader: (1)

Fantastic thread.

Does anyone know the dimensions of the GMPP "Muscle Car Pan"? How does it compare to the F-bod LS1 pan. It sells for much cheaper and I want to see if this is an option.

EDIT. Looks like that kit contains the LH8 pan but I am still unlcear on its dimensions when compared to the F-bod pan.

EDIT #2. Looks like it is 2.5" deeper than the f-bod pan. Lots of info in this thread!

eramos2033

Getting ready to cut my 98-2002 f-body pan to fit my 69 camaro. I'm using hooker mounts with stock manifolds for now. I need some help as far as measurements and where exactly to cut both the pan and pickup tube. Does anyone have a diagram I could follow or Helpful pictures? Advice also greatly appreciated...

philntx

iTrader: (8)

From Holley's site:

Although Holley’s GM LS Retrofit Oil Pan uses a traditional rear sump design, it maintains the factory LS five-quart oil capacity (six-quarts with filter) and structural rigidity. The external sump depth measures 5.89” from the mounting flange, 7.65” from the bell housing flange, and has an external sump width of 9.75”.

ebk06

iTrader: (5)

I cant help you with the cutting dimensions. But if you can use a truck pan and cut it instead of the f-body pan do it and sell the fbody pan. The truck pans are like $50 and you can sell the fbody pan for $150-$200 here literally within hours.

eramos2033

@ebk06

I have both pans, but I was wanting to use the f-body pan because it seemed easier to modify. Now for the truck pan, I have no idea on what and where to cut. I actually have no idea on where to cut neither one of them. This is why I was needing help.

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

Autokraft LS Swap Oil Pan
Here are some detailed pictures of the one I bought and my personal thoughts:





I have to say I am very impressed with both the design and quality of fabrication of this pan. I have seen aftermarket pans for small blocks that didn't come close to the level of detail built into this thing.

The pan is constructed of a stamped section that formes the one-piece flange and front section of the pan and a welded/fabricated sump area that includes kickouts for capacity and active baffling for oil control. The efforts toward keeping oil around the pickup were my primary reason for selecting this pan over some of the others available. Here are some detailed pictures of the sump area





You can see the pan uses hinges as doors to keep oil around the pickup during cornering, braking, and acceleration. The hing travel is limited to opening about 45 degrees, which shold prevent the doors from sticking open.



Another detail to admire is the stitch-welded backup flange that adds thickness/stiffness around the perimeter of the pan to help keep things sealed.



The pan also includes a nicely machined spin-on oil filter adapter.



These o-rings seal the supply & return between the adapter and the oil pan. I was very happy to see the o-ring glands include room for the o-rings to compress, a detail that some (bad) engineers overlook. This should result in a good seal as long as the bolts clamping the adapter do their job.



I haven't looked up this filter yet, but here's what you're supposed to use for this pan.



The pan also includes this fabricated pickup assembly. I suspect (but dont' know for sure) this started life as an OEM assembly and was simply modified to accept the pickup in a new location. My only complaint here is some surface rust around the MIG welds that could have been prevented by oiling it down before storage. We'll see how well it lines up when I install the pan. I do plan to check the distance between the pickup and bottom of the pan.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

I have heard a few good reviews for quality of that pan. The primary complaint for the A-Body guys is that it is too deep in the front and exacerbates the steering tie rod clearance problem for the A-body swaps. I have also seen scenarios where the "kick out" portion complicated starter change clearance on cars with certain header designs.

Steve68

iTrader: (23)

Oil Pan pics, this is my pan I installed with the ATS plates, GM rubber mounts, ATS trans crossmember, I measured enough to where a minimal cut was removed and a friend welded it up, then I cut the stock baffle on a sharp saw, end result it that the factory GM baffle can be used in a modded pan, I'm hoping I wn't have oil issues like a S&P pan,

rsz288

Be interested to see where it sits in relation to the draglink. Did similar cut and it misses except on full lock where the drag link rises up. Needs a minor mod some time soon .