SFI 25.2 Mustang/LSx build "The Renegade"
11-21-2009, 02:57 PM
#2501
On The Tree
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Conneticut
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what about trying the Moran injectors? would it cost the same as the upgrade?
corrected, I don't know why I wrote lifters??
corrected, I don't know why I wrote lifters??
Last edited by defbob; 11-28-2009 at 08:19 AM.
11-24-2009, 03:14 PM
#2503
The 2nd set of injectors will come on a a certain duty cycle, when they get over say 50% the 2nd set will come on.
The car is back down to the bare chassis, I'm getting ready for the 25.2 chassis change over. If you guys need any chromoly "Dillsburg aircraft works" in PA is the place to go. They've got all the tubing in stock and way cheaper than anyone I have found. I'm going to keep the rear structure and just switch the floor over to the 25.2, add the roof gussets and the 2nd diagonal on the roof, we'll be good to go @ 3000# and 6.00s. It might spec for a 25.3 but not really concerned since we'll never race over 3200. I'm also going to remove the current driveshaft loop and add 2 tubular ones.
I'm also going to pull the steering column and make one, the factory column weighs 15#, the new one should weigh less than 3# total.
Madman got the mounts to my shop for the lexan windows and the carbon fiber doors, they should take a TON of weight off the car. As far as weight reduction, I've found somewhere between 58-63 places that I can cut or remove sheetmetal to lighten the combo without losing strength. Should be interesting next year @ 3000# instead of 3285.
The car is back down to the bare chassis, I'm getting ready for the 25.2 chassis change over. If you guys need any chromoly "Dillsburg aircraft works" in PA is the place to go. They've got all the tubing in stock and way cheaper than anyone I have found. I'm going to keep the rear structure and just switch the floor over to the 25.2, add the roof gussets and the 2nd diagonal on the roof, we'll be good to go @ 3000# and 6.00s. It might spec for a 25.3 but not really concerned since we'll never race over 3200. I'm also going to remove the current driveshaft loop and add 2 tubular ones.
I'm also going to pull the steering column and make one, the factory column weighs 15#, the new one should weigh less than 3# total.
Madman got the mounts to my shop for the lexan windows and the carbon fiber doors, they should take a TON of weight off the car. As far as weight reduction, I've found somewhere between 58-63 places that I can cut or remove sheetmetal to lighten the combo without losing strength. Should be interesting next year @ 3000# instead of 3285.
11-24-2009, 03:14 PM
#2504
The 2nd set of injectors will come on a a certain duty cycle, when they get over say 50% the 2nd set will come on.
The car is back down to the bare chassis, I'm getting ready for the 25.2 chassis change over. If you guys need any chromoly "Dillsburg aircraft works" in PA is the place to go. They've got all the tubing in stock and way cheaper than anyone I have found. I'm going to keep the rear structure and just switch the floor over to the 25.2, add the roof gussets and the 2nd diagonal on the roof, we'll be good to go @ 3000# and 6.00s. It might spec for a 25.3 but not really concerned since we'll never race over 3200. I'm also going to remove the current driveshaft loop and add 2 tubular ones.
I'm also going to pull the steering column and make one, the factory column weighs 15#, the new one should weigh less than 3# total.
Madman got the mounts to my shop for the lexan windows and the carbon fiber doors, they should take a TON of weight off the car. As far as weight reduction, I've found somewhere between 58-63 places that I can cut or remove sheetmetal to lighten the combo without losing strength. Should be interesting next year @ 3000# instead of 3285.
The car is back down to the bare chassis, I'm getting ready for the 25.2 chassis change over. If you guys need any chromoly "Dillsburg aircraft works" in PA is the place to go. They've got all the tubing in stock and way cheaper than anyone I have found. I'm going to keep the rear structure and just switch the floor over to the 25.2, add the roof gussets and the 2nd diagonal on the roof, we'll be good to go @ 3000# and 6.00s. It might spec for a 25.3 but not really concerned since we'll never race over 3200. I'm also going to remove the current driveshaft loop and add 2 tubular ones.
I'm also going to pull the steering column and make one, the factory column weighs 15#, the new one should weigh less than 3# total.
Madman got the mounts to my shop for the lexan windows and the carbon fiber doors, they should take a TON of weight off the car. As far as weight reduction, I've found somewhere between 58-63 places that I can cut or remove sheetmetal to lighten the combo without losing strength. Should be interesting next year @ 3000# instead of 3285.
11-30-2009, 12:16 PM
#2505
Had a slow weekend, Shawn from Virginia Speed loaned a tubing bender to finish up the 25.2 and a plasma cutter. Got the bender mounted to the floor and wired up the plasma cutter.
This morning I got the passenger side sub/frame cut out and the 1 5/8" frame rail bar welded in place with 1/8" CM chassis tabs.
This morning I got the passenger side sub/frame cut out and the 1 5/8" frame rail bar welded in place with 1/8" CM chassis tabs.
11-30-2009, 12:16 PM
#2506
Had a slow weekend, Shawn from Virginia Speed loaned a tubing bender to finish up the 25.2 and a plasma cutter. Got the bender mounted to the floor and wired up the plasma cutter.
This morning I got the passenger side sub/frame cut out and the 1 5/8" frame rail bar welded in place with 1/8" CM chassis tabs.
This morning I got the passenger side sub/frame cut out and the 1 5/8" frame rail bar welded in place with 1/8" CM chassis tabs.
11-30-2009, 03:45 PM
#2510
Thanks, There is nothing exotic about my parts, most of the crap is made with a 4 1/2" grinder, chop saw or my POS tubing notcher from Harbor freight. I'd be scared to see what I could make if I actually had decent tools. I think I've got just under $350 in materials for the 25.2, steering column and the remainder of the chassis stuff.
11-30-2009, 03:59 PM
#2511
Jesus. I wish I was closer to you guys... I'd be more then willing to help and BUY a couple good tools and help just to gain the knowledge to be able to do it myself.
Hell if that's all you have in mat'l, the 40 feet of 3/4 inch round bar and tabs I need is probably like 250 bucks, and with that I could do the 4 grand worth of work on the front end of my sled.
Keep the pictures coming, it's nice to watch this stuff come together, and see how the real racers, the ones that build their own stuff from scratch make their masterpieces.
Hell if that's all you have in mat'l, the 40 feet of 3/4 inch round bar and tabs I need is probably like 250 bucks, and with that I could do the 4 grand worth of work on the front end of my sled.
Keep the pictures coming, it's nice to watch this stuff come together, and see how the real racers, the ones that build their own stuff from scratch make their masterpieces.
11-30-2009, 04:54 PM
#2512
Thats how I started, dropped the coin on the tools that were needed and just worked though it. I kinda taught myself how to weld, asked alot of questions and read a bunch of books. At the end of the day I really enjoy putting the cars together more than racing.
12-01-2009, 05:56 AM
#2514
I may just end up doing the same thing, only thing I worry about is cutting something off then not being able to redo it myself, or making a real mess of something.
12-01-2009, 07:37 AM
#2515
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start with stuff that you don't care about....like scrap pieces and whatnot...then move to stuff that you're life don't depend on (things other than rollcage)...then when you start getting decent at it...then move on to the critical stuff
