Piston For High Compression - Sponsors, Suggestions, Rotating Asbly.
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For an "All Motor" car that wants to be on the edge of "too far", what pistons are needed for an All-Out Drag Car? Flat top or Deep dish? (Diamond or Mahle?) Going further than a -2, what would be the highest I could go to achieve near insane compression, (14-15), but not slamming the head? Looking for knowledgable people to help me understand this. Prefer all forged bottom end for "bullet proof" purposes. Also wondering about H-Beam rods and difference in a GM Crank and Aftermarket Crank. Also any sponsors that contact me (or I will contact them if recommended) I need this assembly balanced and ready to put in. With a feature story coming out, I will be happy to give credit to the company that can help me out timely and financially in this time of need, since my season just started and I am determined to do well this year. Thanks for any help.
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Alot will have to do with the heads that you are running, how much lift you are going to run and what size valve reliefs need to be in the pistons. 14 to 1 is an achievable # with lsx stuff and will make good power.
One thing ot think about is that a high compression n/a setup is gonna want to turn RPM's, and alot of them. So plan on a solid roller if you want to go all out, a LW crank, alum rods, that need to be replaced probably once a season, or every x amout of passes, and to feed this a sheet metal intake is almost a must. Another concern is I see you're running a 4Ljunkie tranny, that tranny is NOT gonna like 7500 rpm being driven into it that I am sure of, so you need to plan on making a change there as well if you want to go the route you're considering.
I'd ask how fast do you want to go, and what is the budget... and start there.
One thing ot think about is that a high compression n/a setup is gonna want to turn RPM's, and alot of them. So plan on a solid roller if you want to go all out, a LW crank, alum rods, that need to be replaced probably once a season, or every x amout of passes, and to feed this a sheet metal intake is almost a must. Another concern is I see you're running a 4Ljunkie tranny, that tranny is NOT gonna like 7500 rpm being driven into it that I am sure of, so you need to plan on making a change there as well if you want to go the route you're considering.
I'd ask how fast do you want to go, and what is the budget... and start there.
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Alot will have to do with the heads that you are running, how much lift you are going to run and what size valve reliefs need to be in the pistons. 14 to 1 is an achievable # with lsx stuff and will make good power.
One thing ot think about is that a high compression n/a setup is gonna want to turn RPM's, and alot of them. So plan on a solid roller if you want to go all out, a LW crank, alum rods, that need to be replaced probably once a season, or every x amout of passes, and to feed this a sheet metal intake is almost a must. Another concern is I see you're running a 4Ljunkie tranny, that tranny is NOT gonna like 7500 rpm being driven into it that I am sure of, so you need to plan on making a change there as well if you want to go the route you're considering.
I'd ask how fast do you want to go, and what is the budget... and start there.
One thing ot think about is that a high compression n/a setup is gonna want to turn RPM's, and alot of them. So plan on a solid roller if you want to go all out, a LW crank, alum rods, that need to be replaced probably once a season, or every x amout of passes, and to feed this a sheet metal intake is almost a must. Another concern is I see you're running a 4Ljunkie tranny, that tranny is NOT gonna like 7500 rpm being driven into it that I am sure of, so you need to plan on making a change there as well if you want to go the route you're considering.
I'd ask how fast do you want to go, and what is the budget... and start there.
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You probably need to put a shortblock in the car, and try to plan on turning under 7000 rpm with the setup.
Unless you want to go bigger cubes, a stock crank is fine, callies may make a lighter version, alum rods certainly are a good bit lighter, but aren't cheap at about 1200 just for the rods. A regular h or I beam rod would be fine.
Give Erik Koeing a call, you're located in texas not too far form him, SAM might be able to help you out there probably not too far away as well. If you're already at a 10.8 speed range, a decent bump to 13 to 1 compression and a reliable setup and cam set up to make peak pwr at about 6800 probably could get you to mid 10's but not too much farther then that. When you are ready to put a tranny in the car that can take some higher rpm, a cam swap is probably all you'd need to allow it to spin higher and make some more steam.
Unless you want to go bigger cubes, a stock crank is fine, callies may make a lighter version, alum rods certainly are a good bit lighter, but aren't cheap at about 1200 just for the rods. A regular h or I beam rod would be fine.
Give Erik Koeing a call, you're located in texas not too far form him, SAM might be able to help you out there probably not too far away as well. If you're already at a 10.8 speed range, a decent bump to 13 to 1 compression and a reliable setup and cam set up to make peak pwr at about 6800 probably could get you to mid 10's but not too much farther then that. When you are ready to put a tranny in the car that can take some higher rpm, a cam swap is probably all you'd need to allow it to spin higher and make some more steam.
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imho i'd go with je pistons. preferebly a flat top piston. rework the heads to get the compression you desire. solid roller cam to match heads and compression. re worked carb intake or sheetmetal. forged rods, alum would be nice but not a must. how big of an engine will this be? rpm's will be limited to intake and heads, but expect to make power to 8500 or so with a solid roller. also i'd get rid of the 4l60. 350, 400, or a PG and put a good converter in it to match the combo. and run a brake if the class allows. good luck with the build
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imho i'd go with je pistons. preferebly a flat top piston. rework the heads to get the compression you desire. solid roller cam to match heads and compression. re worked carb intake or sheetmetal. forged rods, alum would be nice but not a must. how big of an engine will this be? rpm's will be limited to intake and heads, but expect to make power to 8500 or so with a solid roller. also i'd get rid of the 4l60. 350, 400, or a PG and put a good converter in it to match the combo. and run a brake if the class allows. good luck with the build
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Yes, maintaining a 347. Not trying to do a stroker; (not enough power for the $$) just trying to do a rotating assembly with another GM Crank. It has been the worst 3 days of my life since it happened. But I am to the point now where instead of being mad/upset about it I am looking forward to putting better parts in the car. But I think this takes all of us by surprize.