F1A-390ci-E85
ARP fasteners all the way around. Labeled and vacuum sealed. Stainless 12 point. Should make the bay look a little nicer too. Also new gaskets and seals for everything including oil pan, timing covers, pumps, ect.......
I am ready to get this month out of the way and get this thing tuned.[/QUOTE]
Can you send me the links for all this stuff? Been looking for this so I can do the same as you're doing.
I am ready to get this month out of the way and get this thing tuned.[/QUOTE]
Can you send me the links for all this stuff? Been looking for this so I can do the same as you're doing.
Worked on getting the dash out today, and was successful. Lots of 7mm and 10mm screws and wire harness clips.
Quick directions
Remove Seats (easier)
Remove A pillars
Remove Fuse PPanel and underside of dash as well as the glovebox
Remove the Light switch in the glovebox and white tabs on the left that hold the relays
Remove The steering column or just drop it down.
Remove the panel, radio and push the a/c controls through there
Take the plastic piece in front of the speedo off and remove the speedo
Remove the top dash pad carefully. Remove all the screws
Unplug harnesses and anything that is too short to let it pull out.
Pull it out and remomve the rest of the hvac box and airbags.
I had it out with a buddy helping me in about 2 hours with smoke breaks.
Also go the Madman HVAC delete plate installed and its looks factory and fit perfectly.
Used the writeup in drag racing tech.
The **** we took out. not including hardware.
Quick directions
Remove Seats (easier)
Remove A pillars
Remove Fuse PPanel and underside of dash as well as the glovebox
Remove the Light switch in the glovebox and white tabs on the left that hold the relays
Remove The steering column or just drop it down.
Remove the panel, radio and push the a/c controls through there
Take the plastic piece in front of the speedo off and remove the speedo
Remove the top dash pad carefully. Remove all the screws
Unplug harnesses and anything that is too short to let it pull out.
Pull it out and remomve the rest of the hvac box and airbags.
I had it out with a buddy helping me in about 2 hours with smoke breaks.
Also go the Madman HVAC delete plate installed and its looks factory and fit perfectly.
Used the writeup in drag racing tech.
The **** we took out. not including hardware.
Picked up some VP M1 and got hounded by the fuel guy for going e85. Anyway...
Got my powdercoated valve covers ready to have the -10 bungs welded in ( I had them coated before I found out I was deleting the PCV for a breather setup).
Going to run ATI's Fully Synthetic F series fluid. I figure if its good enough for Pro Mods Running 5.98 in the 1/4 its fine for me.
Got my powdercoated valve covers ready to have the -10 bungs welded in ( I had them coated before I found out I was deleting the PCV for a breather setup).
Going to run ATI's Fully Synthetic F series fluid. I figure if its good enough for Pro Mods Running 5.98 in the 1/4 its fine for me.
I got my new AFCO radiator in. They told me it would be 7-10 business days to get it made and shipped out. It arrived in 4 days. Amazing service, work, and products. Probably the best company I have dealt with thus far. I had them put the bung in for me to adapt a 1/4 NPT to a -4an for the Kurt Urban Vapor Kit I have.
It is a 27.5 x 16'' x 3 and its dual pass. I didnt like the idea of a large amount of the fan hanging off the edge that much. I also got this one because it is a dual pass, and will allow me to run the hoses on the same side instead of crossing over and cluttering up the front of the engine bay.
KUP just came out with some black lines for the kit vs the bling bling ones I have. I am going to see if they will swap them trade for them if I pay shipping or if I can get a discount on the black ones so they are not as obvious sitting on the side of the intake.
Also got a black powdercoated Classic Industries High Amp Alternator. Figured that was in order vs the 105amp 11 year old one I have.
Putting the dash back in Sunday, just need to get the engine and pallet of other **** over to the shop from the warehouse.
It is a 27.5 x 16'' x 3 and its dual pass. I didnt like the idea of a large amount of the fan hanging off the edge that much. I also got this one because it is a dual pass, and will allow me to run the hoses on the same side instead of crossing over and cluttering up the front of the engine bay.
KUP just came out with some black lines for the kit vs the bling bling ones I have. I am going to see if they will swap them trade for them if I pay shipping or if I can get a discount on the black ones so they are not as obvious sitting on the side of the intake.
Also got a black powdercoated Classic Industries High Amp Alternator. Figured that was in order vs the 105amp 11 year old one I have.
Putting the dash back in Sunday, just need to get the engine and pallet of other **** over to the shop from the warehouse.
Got the accessories on the motor. Swapped over the bolts the longblock came with to ARP and I cannot wait to snap some pics. It looks so badass with all the powdercoated and painted **** on top of it. This thing is going to look sick in the engine bay.
Sorry dudes. Saving those for the finale of this overdone thread.
Did get the fan mounted on the radiator last night and ran it to a power source....Spal fans definitely suck.
Just finishing up mounting the rad up under the brace and getting a hole there for the fill neck.
Final Assembly wrapping up over the next few weeks. Got a photographer who happens to own the garage I am using......you see where this is going.
Did get the fan mounted on the radiator last night and ran it to a power source....Spal fans definitely suck.
Just finishing up mounting the rad up under the brace and getting a hole there for the fill neck.
Final Assembly wrapping up over the next few weeks. Got a photographer who happens to own the garage I am using......you see where this is going.
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Verdad Gallardo Collecting the rest of her fluids and a few spare filters for the first few frequent oil changes! Got the power steering res painted up in gloss black. Almost forgot it entirely. It would have stuck out like a sore thumb.
Went around the local stations testing the Ethanol content. Came out to E90 at the stations nearest to me. I used a dropper to get it on the money.
I will be using dual 15 gallon Jaz Products fuel jugs to keep a good supply. Full tank to start with 2 jugs at home should meet my needs. I drive by it each day in my company vehicle so keeping a supply will be really simple.
Went around the local stations testing the Ethanol content. Came out to E90 at the stations nearest to me. I used a dropper to get it on the money.
I will be using dual 15 gallon Jaz Products fuel jugs to keep a good supply. Full tank to start with 2 jugs at home should meet my needs. I drive by it each day in my company vehicle so keeping a supply will be really simple.
I have had half a water bottle full of e85 sitting outside for a few days and nights. I am going to try and find a way to test it here this week to see if it absorbed any water. I figure if a water bottle can keep the water out after sitting outside in storms, and the humidity, and cool damn nights of the southeast, then my fuel can should be prime for keeping it pure.
I think personally its sealed better at home than it is in the tanks at the station. Usually they are just using a manhole cover type of deal.
I made a huge appearance oriented purchase today. Cannot wait till this weekend to go pick everything up. They are at the beach so I will be on a lil vacation at the same time. Two birds. One stone.
I think personally its sealed better at home than it is in the tanks at the station. Usually they are just using a manhole cover type of deal.
I made a huge appearance oriented purchase today. Cannot wait till this weekend to go pick everything up. They are at the beach so I will be on a lil vacation at the same time. Two birds. One stone.
The manhole cover just cover a sealing cap under it. It's long term stability that's my concern. At the gas station, typically gas gets turned over every 3-7 days. Most fuels have an effective shelf life of about 1 month to 6 weeks, then they start dropping a point of octane every week or two. That's my only concern with getting a 55 gallon barrel of the stuff and keeping it for the summer.
Thats why I am only doing 30 gallons. By my watch, I dont think you drive yours as much as I do (when mine runs) so I see no need for the 55 drum . 15 gallon jugs are easier to transport too. You have HPT and your still running meth, so I plan on tuning for the e85 then introducing the meth to fatten it up. There is a chart available that allows you to know exactly what to set the tune for, and a few good calculators out that can calculate the octane fairly well. I am truly not worried about it. It really depends on how much timing the car ends up wanting to make power. If I end up using the advance that guys use on 93 then it should be a nice safety blanket at the very least even with the ethanol swing. They make a flex fuel sensor you can put in the return line, that will adjust the tables based on the content it sees in the fuel automatically, but I didnt see the need when you could just adjust it in hp and test it by hand.
wonderful people at texas speed. research on setups using them show they flow really well.
they have a 3/4 deck
and they run a little less than afr and tfs and they are not as common. i like to try new things.
also they are 6 bolt heads so when i swap to a larger lsx motor in the future i wont have to buy new heads. plus they come with some badass springs. valves.
a few reasons on the PRC heads
wonderful people at texas speed. research on setups using them show they flow really well.
they have a 3/4 deck
and they run a little less than afr and tfs and they are not as common. i like to try new things.
also they are 6 bolt heads so when i swap to a larger lsx motor in the future i wont have to buy new heads. plus they come with some badass springs. valves.
wonderful people at texas speed. research on setups using them show they flow really well.
they have a 3/4 deck
and they run a little less than afr and tfs and they are not as common. i like to try new things.
also they are 6 bolt heads so when i swap to a larger lsx motor in the future i wont have to buy new heads. plus they come with some badass springs. valves.
