rear rotor swap kicked my A$$
11-29-2008, 07:01 PM
#1
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rear rotor swap kicked my A$$ So i undertook an easy task of changing all four rotors and all brake pads. Front rotors were a piece of cake. i get to the drivers side rear rotor and the damn rotor wouldnt budge!! tried taking it off w/ and w/o parking brake on with tranny on gear and not(not that it makes a difference) banged the **** out of the rotor, kicked it, cursed it, prayed for it but still nothing. Sun was going down and just like a dog with its tail down i put the rear tire on and gave up.
WTF!! is that thing so rusted that its gonna require some brute force? or are there some tiny little screws that i need to unscrew to take them off?
WTF!! is that thing so rusted that its gonna require some brute force? or are there some tiny little screws that i need to unscrew to take them off?
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11-30-2008, 01:02 AM
#8
Here's what I like to do: (This lessens the possibility of collateral damage to the car or self when swinging a hammer.)
Take a 2X4 and place it over the studs. Then place two C-clamps on the 2X4 and back of the rotor. Slowly continue to tighten the clamps and then the rotor should "pop" off.
When you do the rears - be ready to adjust the parking brakes. They will probably need adjustment to match the new bore in your new rotors. (And you can only do the adjustments with the calipers/rotors off.) https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...ightening.html
Take a 2X4 and place it over the studs. Then place two C-clamps on the 2X4 and back of the rotor. Slowly continue to tighten the clamps and then the rotor should "pop" off.
When you do the rears - be ready to adjust the parking brakes. They will probably need adjustment to match the new bore in your new rotors. (And you can only do the adjustments with the calipers/rotors off.) https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...ightening.html
11-30-2008, 10:50 PM
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I know when I did the rear rotors on my dad's mercedes I had to use a special brake spreader. Autozone sells it for like 24 bux and you get your money back when your done with it
12-01-2008, 12:03 PM
#11
the parking brake needs to be off, otherwise the parking brake shoe will hold the rotor on.
there are little blue retainer clips, like a toothed washer, that are on the wheel studs holding the rotor on, usually only one per wheel. if you don't pry/cut these off then you will not get the rotor off. They should be easy to see.
other than that, get a 20 lb sledge and they should pop off. A regular hammer or even a 5 lb mini-sledge is can not be massive enough if the rotor is rusted on.
there are little blue retainer clips, like a toothed washer, that are on the wheel studs holding the rotor on, usually only one per wheel. if you don't pry/cut these off then you will not get the rotor off. They should be easy to see.
other than that, get a 20 lb sledge and they should pop off. A regular hammer or even a 5 lb mini-sledge is can not be massive enough if the rotor is rusted on.
12-01-2008, 10:11 PM
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I had this problem on my Jeep, the rotor had rusted right to the axle flange. I had to pound the hell out of it, and I used half a can of PB Blaster and a Propane torch. I'd heat the rotor around the lug holes, the spray the PB on it. It's flammable, btw so watch out.
An hour and a half of this, per side, and I got them off. When I put it back together, I coated inside the rotor hat and the axle flange w/ high temp bearing grease (I didn't have an anti-sieze around), so hopefully they'll be easier to get off next time.
An air chisel might help too, if you have one. That's what it took to get the unit bearings out of the steering knuckles, again on the Jeep.
I think I'm going to have it apart soon to install a locker, so I'll find out soon enough.
An hour and a half of this, per side, and I got them off. When I put it back together, I coated inside the rotor hat and the axle flange w/ high temp bearing grease (I didn't have an anti-sieze around), so hopefully they'll be easier to get off next time.
An air chisel might help too, if you have one. That's what it took to get the unit bearings out of the steering knuckles, again on the Jeep.
I think I'm going to have it apart soon to install a locker, so I'll find out soon enough.
12-20-2008, 01:20 AM
#16
Here's the answer you're wanting... There are infact 3, if not 4, round retainer clips on the bolts which are impossible to see in the dark (I know from experience...sigh). They are a son of a bitch to get off without breaking them, but I use a screwdriver and just methodically bend them left, then right, then left, then right..etc... They will come off though... Then I guarantee that the rotor will be rusted to to the axle. You will need a rubber mallet. Whack the sh*t out of it about a hundred times from the back, then when it finally budges, start hitting the outer hub area and it will come off eventually. Also be sure to pay attention to the e-brake ring behind the rotor. Make sure it is sitting straight up and is centered on its bracket before installing the new rotor, or else you will establish a clicking sound... Hope this helps... OH! and when you are putting the bent up rings back on the hub bolts, just turn your lugnuts around the wrong way and tighten them down against the rotor (without the tire). It's a very quick and easy way to get those rings back on and flatten them out again.
L8r,
Scott
L8r,
Scott
12-20-2008, 07:30 PM
#17
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^^^^lmfao you actually put the rings back on? u know they are just put on there to keep the rotors from falling off on the assembly line right? have no value what so ever to put back but i did get a little laugh out of that thanks! and again big effing hammer man the hell up and hit that **** damn
12-20-2008, 08:09 PM
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If there are the little stop rings on the rotors just use a pair of dykes and cut them off. then go to town with a hammer. If your replacing the rotors don't bother messing with a rubber mallet or wooden mallet. Just beat the SOB with a good old fashion flat faced hammer. start by hitting in between the studs to help brake any rust and then beat them from the back alternating sides to walk it off. a small prybar may come in handy as well by inserting it in the ribs on the opposite side from where your hitting to help with leverage.
Even after all this I've probably had to remove 5 to 10 of them at work that were being replaced by breaking them off (usually didn't intend on this method though)
Even after all this I've probably had to remove 5 to 10 of them at work that were being replaced by breaking them off (usually didn't intend on this method though)
