Oil and Oil Filter?
Oil and Oil Filter? You hear the question all the time I am sure. What would be for a 117k car? it gets beat up from time to time and I posted a video with the Oil filter in the shot and someone commented about it. It was a fram. it was on sell and I bought it sorry. So what should I run. Also, The oil weight. I want to go to the track in a week for a couple of passes in the 1/4 what so what would be good for a DD/track for a day?
There is a thread in this forum maybe a cpl weeks ago with alot of opinions and a link to the oil guy ,,,,,,something like that ,,,,,,Zee-06 prob knows that info or how/where to find it .
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Teching In
Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Northern California
2nd technical post: Mobil 1 5/30 & AC Delco filter.
Both at walmart for dirt. Been using it for 190,000 miles with a 2 psi pressure drop from new.
Incredible stuff - especially for the price
48 to go.
Both at walmart for dirt. Been using it for 190,000 miles with a 2 psi pressure drop from new.
Incredible stuff - especially for the price
48 to go.
First, welcome to LS1tech!
I don't think a pressure drop (or lack of) from new is a very accurate measure of an engine's lubrication performance. The oil pressure is maintained by the relief valve & spring. As bearing clearances might open up over time, the spring will allow more flow to keep it's set pressure.
So, another oil & filter thread, eh? Let the games begin!
I run German Castrol and a Cummins oil filter. The oil is easily found, the filter is not. In a pinch, I'd reach for nothing less than a Mobil One Extended or K&N filter.
NEVER A FRAM OF ANY TYPE!
I don't think a pressure drop (or lack of) from new is a very accurate measure of an engine's lubrication performance. The oil pressure is maintained by the relief valve & spring. As bearing clearances might open up over time, the spring will allow more flow to keep it's set pressure.
So, another oil & filter thread, eh? Let the games begin!
I run German Castrol and a Cummins oil filter. The oil is easily found, the filter is not. In a pinch, I'd reach for nothing less than a Mobil One Extended or K&N filter.
NEVER A FRAM OF ANY TYPE!
Last edited by Paul Bell; Nov 3, 2011 at 09:15 PM.
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I don't think a pressure drop (or lack of) from new is a very accurate measure of an engine's lubrication performance. The oil pressure is maintained by the relief valve & spring. As bearing clearances might open up over time, the spring will allow more flow to keep it's set pressure.
If you consider the oil pump a perfect positive displacement device, then it's outlet pressure will rise if need be to force the output displacement through the system until the maximum outlet pressure is achieved, as controlled by the "pressure relief valve" in the oil pump.
The oil pressure is only maintained by the relief valve at a maximum if it gets to the point of the max pressure setting. Otherwise, the pressure goes up and down dependent on engine RPM (ie, volume is changing with pump speed) and oil viscosity (ie, oil weight & temp).
If the bearing clearance increases, that means the engine's resistance to oil flow is reduced, and that just means it would take more volume to achieve the same oil pressure at the same viscosity and temperature. If the bearings were totally shot, you'd never see high enough oil pressure even at redline to make the pressure relief valve operate.
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To add ... the oil pressure is dependent on the resistance of the engine's oiling circuit, the oil viscosity and the oil volume the pump is trying to cram through the engine's oiling circuit.
If you consider the oil pump a perfect positive displacement device, then it's outlet pressure will rise if need be to force the output displacement through the system until the maximum outlet pressure is achieved, as controlled by the "pressure relief valve" in the oil pump.
The oil pressure is only maintained by the relief valve at a maximum if it gets to the point of the max pressure setting. Otherwise, the pressure goes up and down dependent on engine RPM (ie, volume is changing with pump speed) and oil viscosity (ie, oil weight & temp).
If the bearing clearance increases, that means the engine's resistance to oil flow is reduced, and that just means it would take more volume to achieve the same oil pressure at the same viscosity and temperature. If the bearings were totally shot, you'd never see high enough oil pressure even at redline to make the pressure relief valve operate.
If you consider the oil pump a perfect positive displacement device, then it's outlet pressure will rise if need be to force the output displacement through the system until the maximum outlet pressure is achieved, as controlled by the "pressure relief valve" in the oil pump.
The oil pressure is only maintained by the relief valve at a maximum if it gets to the point of the max pressure setting. Otherwise, the pressure goes up and down dependent on engine RPM (ie, volume is changing with pump speed) and oil viscosity (ie, oil weight & temp).
If the bearing clearance increases, that means the engine's resistance to oil flow is reduced, and that just means it would take more volume to achieve the same oil pressure at the same viscosity and temperature. If the bearings were totally shot, you'd never see high enough oil pressure even at redline to make the pressure relief valve operate.
plus what is a good filter
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Verdad Gallardo First, welcome to LS1tech!
I don't think a pressure drop (or lack of) from new is a very accurate measure of an engine's lubrication performance. The oil pressure is maintained by the relief valve & spring. As bearing clearances might open up over time, the spring will allow more flow to keep it's set pressure.
So, another oil & filter thread, eh? Let the games begin!
I run German Castrol and a Cummins oil filter. The oil is easily found, the filter is not. In a pinch, I'd reach for nothing less than a Mobil One Extended or K&N filter.
NEVER A FRAM OF ANY TYPE!
I don't think a pressure drop (or lack of) from new is a very accurate measure of an engine's lubrication performance. The oil pressure is maintained by the relief valve & spring. As bearing clearances might open up over time, the spring will allow more flow to keep it's set pressure.
So, another oil & filter thread, eh? Let the games begin!
I run German Castrol and a Cummins oil filter. The oil is easily found, the filter is not. In a pinch, I'd reach for nothing less than a Mobil One Extended or K&N filter.
NEVER A FRAM OF ANY TYPE!
TECH Regular
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 452
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You are now my personal Jesus!! thanks hahaha so what weight should I use on a good oil pump but fluctuation in the oil pressure. High rpms high oil pressure and low rpms low oil pressure not under 20 but it's consitent after tire kindgom fucked up and put 6 quarts of oil in and ever sense it has been flexing when warm. what weight would you recommend. I am doing the oil change today. plus what is a good filter
If the oil pressure is fluctuating all over the place at a constant RPM, then there's a problem with the either the oil pump, the pump's pressure regulator or filter bypass valve (in the block). Also, if the O-ring is damaged between the oil pick-up and the pump, the pump could be sucking air which can cause oil pressure fluctuations - most suspect cause IMO.
How much oil pressure fluctuation is there at idle for instance? ... or at a constant 2500 RPM?
I just run Mobil 1 5W-30 and either a NAPA Gold (same as WIX) or Purolator filter and always have good constant oil pressure.
Last edited by ZeeOSix; Nov 7, 2011 at 06:17 PM.
Lotsa good info here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...oil-gurus.html
While the Fram Xtended Guard filter is their better offering, it's still not that great. For about the same money, you can get a K&N or Mobil One Extended filter, both of which are easily better filters and more readily available.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vV2VlQY6T6E
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...oil-gurus.html
While the Fram Xtended Guard filter is their better offering, it's still not that great. For about the same money, you can get a K&N or Mobil One Extended filter, both of which are easily better filters and more readily available.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vV2VlQY6T6E
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The Fram Xtended Guard (XG) is the only Fram filter I'd use. IMO, it's a pretty decent filter and has good construction and filtering efficiency & holding capacity. What the guy said in the video about the "plastic" (it's probably actually nylon) bypass valve doesn't raise a concern for me because I'm sure the material they chose is fine for high temperatures. One thing I like about the XG is they use those stand offs on the circumference of the end caps to ensure there's a decent sized flow gap between the media and outer can.
Lotsa good info here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...oil-gurus.html
While the Fram Xtended Guard filter is their better offering, it's still not that great. For about the same money, you can get a K&N or Mobil One Extended filter, both of which are easily better filters and more readily available.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vV2VlQY6T6E
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...oil-gurus.html
While the Fram Xtended Guard filter is their better offering, it's still not that great. For about the same money, you can get a K&N or Mobil One Extended filter, both of which are easily better filters and more readily available.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vV2VlQY6T6E
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...2272137&page=1
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...2092358&page=1
The Xtended Guard is more readily available than a Mobil 1 or K&N for the simple fact that it is stocked at Wal-Mart and the other two aren't.
It is a good filter. That is why it costs like 3x the amount of their standard orange filter.
Here's some more filter stuff...
http://www.gmtruckcentral.com/articl...lterstudy.html
It is a good filter. That is why it costs like 3x the amount of their standard orange filter.
Here's some more filter stuff...
http://www.gmtruckcentral.com/articl...lterstudy.html
