Update. Heads are off. Edging balancer hub stuck. Broke two pullers. Tried heat. I'll figure it out. Both my pullers were cheapies. Need to get a good one. I had hoped to have the cam swapped but balancer stopped that.

Pistons are .0175 out rocked one way and -.0045 in rocked the other way. Top and bottom of both cylinders 1,2.

 

"Chance favors the prepared mind"
-Travis Dane-

 

Local auto zone...for a loner brother....
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Thermals underneath go good for this cold snap.....rainy and coooold in Fort Worth. Kentucky was worst.

 

So you have broke 2 and gonna go rent a loaner, likely break the cheap pos and have to buy it..... solid plan lol

 

On the fly thinking. Love me some Zone.
Most stuff like duralast tools have a Lifetime... replacement ...btw. Duralast lmao

 

Took 17500 lbs in a hydraulic puller to get it to break loose. No your autozone puller can not do that.

 

Glad you got it broke free. Now you just need push rods and gaskets?

 

Whats a septimus

 

Latin/Roman origin- the "Seventh". Google told me so....

 

And a new cam retainer plate. And a new ATI hub. But yeah. I will post up some **** later. Off my phone images are too big. For two days in I am almost exactly where I thought I would be. Not bad really.

 

The ATI hub was stuck on that badly?

 

Yes. I have seen this before at work. Low grade anti sieze can cook and turns to loctite. I should have just used chassis grease.

Good news is the crank snout is unmarked. Bad news is I warped the hub getting it off. Given the choice I'll take this outcome every time.

 

Damn...i was just thinkn how i thought i was smarter because i antisiezed mine...than i read the rest of the post...fml!

 

I hope it goes better for you than it did for me. Lol

 

Damn that was really welded.....on.

Glad the crank wasn't hurt....

 

Most of the time, you can’t just install the ATI hub out of the box. Measure the crank snout and the ID of the hub. ATI puts very specific press fit numbers in the 12 pounds of paperwork that comes with each damper. I’ve had to hone every ATI hub I’ve ever bought before install. I’ve never put one on a Oem LS crank, so I can’t speak of that application, but for aftermarket cranks, all of mine have required a very light hone.

 

This hub had been on and off several times on my stock LS1 crank. Maybe that's the issue. This is basically a stroker crank. Really it may well be a 416 crank fitted with a 24x reluctor. I was very happy that the crank snout is not scored at all. Very happy.

 

Engine P0rn time!


Intake off. Balancer hub being a C-word. This was the second puller I ruined on this hub, so I gave up and moved on until i could figure out what to do

Valvetrain looks very clean

Zero reversion with this setup. That port has a couple thousand miles on it

Since the hub was being a bitch, I moved on and got the heads off so i didn't waste a day.

Cylinder walls look the good

10-ton Pittsburg hydraulic power pack from harbor freight for $200. Also, got the low profile ram so I could fit it. Used the round plate from a Maddox kit to press against. Inside the hub, I have an impact grade 10mm socket between the ram and crank snout. This is the way to remove a crank pulley.

 

That press usage was genius . Those old heads look sharp, capable of making really good power too.

 

What's better than engine p0rn? MOAR engine p0rn!


When I say the cam retainer plate was worse than the hub, I wasn't kidding. Three of the four bolts got stuck. Two torx bits got twisted from the effort. THEN, I got an impact grade torx bit to try to get the third stuck bolt, and it just rounded off. The one nice thing about a torx bit is the center has a natural valley, so your drill bit finds the center quite easily. So, I drilled into the first bolt, got the extractor in, and the extractor SHEARED OFF INSIDE THE BOLT. I tried drilling the extractor with a diamond bit, but to no avail. So, I covered everything up and got out a dremel with a 1.5" metal cutting wheel, cut an X into the bolt. Then started working it back and forth. My plan was to cut the head off the bolt, pull the retainer, and extract the nub with vice grips. Well, it either got deep enough or hot enough, the cutting wheel knocked the broken off piece of extractor out. So, I drilled it bigger with a larger bit to use a larger extractor, then backed it out. THat's the boogared up bolt standing upright so you can see how mangled it got. The other two bolts, I went ahead and drilled out to the larger bit. Well, the wall of the bolt got so thin the heads broke off and pushed up the drill bit. So I had to get a new smaller extractor, drill very deep into the other two bolts, and they backed out with difficulty, because I boogared up the threads a bit trying to drill. That said, I'm very grateful. Jesus must have smiled on me. For a while there, I thought the block was going to have to come out.


Cam out. Finally


GapeMaker ready for insertion


GapeMaker inserted. Engage gape-age


Cam card shows 18.2 degrees at 050 lift on 1.7 rockers, but I have 1.8's. That crank bolt thing didn't come with the kit, but is well worth it for making the degreeing job as easy as possible.


052 lift on 18 degrees. Looks like the cam and timing set are perfect. New C5R chain. i'll likely degree it again. just before I put the timing cover on. What I like to do is four revolutions fully assembled and recheck the degree readings. Call me whatever names you want...