Cometic head gaskets
Cometic head gaskets I have stock head bolts on my 402. And i just bought arp head studs. could i replace a bolt after i take one out? and would my gaskets be alright. and do i use stock torque pattern and specs?
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 320
Likes: 0
From: Norwalk, CT
I think you are asking whether or not you can remove the factory bolts one at a
time and replacing them with an ARP stud, right? I don't think its a good idea to try it that way but I have never done it. If you really want to attempt it you would have to loosen in the order specified.
time and replacing them with an ARP stud, right? I don't think its a good idea to try it that way but I have never done it. If you really want to attempt it you would have to loosen in the order specified.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 320
Likes: 0
From: Norwalk, CT
Cometics are supposed to be reusable a few times. I have heard people say that
they reused them and they leaked. Others have reused them with great results. I think if you clean the gaskets and heads/deck really well they should be fine. I have also heard that if you reuse them, spray both sides of the gaskets with copper spray.
they reused them and they leaked. Others have reused them with great results. I think if you clean the gaskets and heads/deck really well they should be fine. I have also heard that if you reuse them, spray both sides of the gaskets with copper spray.
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Originally Posted by Bandit28
I have stock head bolts on my 402. And i just bought arp head studs. could i replace a bolt after i take one out? and would my gaskets be alright. and do i use stock torque pattern and specs?
Hammer
Originally Posted by Project GatTagO
Whats wrong with the head bolts now?
Andrew
Andrew
Are you running big n2o or boost?
I think you're wasting your time changing them and it's going to be a PIA to clean out the bolt holes one at a time with the heads on, in a f-body to boot.
Originally Posted by 2c5s
Good question.
Are you running big n2o or boost?
I think you're wasting your time changing them and it's going to be a PIA to clean out the bolt holes one at a time with the heads on, in a f-body to boot.
Are you running big n2o or boost?
I think you're wasting your time changing them and it's going to be a PIA to clean out the bolt holes one at a time with the heads on, in a f-body to boot.
Hammer
Originally Posted by thehammer69
How important is it gonna be for him to clean out the threads good if he's screwing in a stud finger tight and then torquing on a nut? But yeah, it probably is a waste of time as the stock bolts should do the job.
Hammer
Hammer
Plus, if the threads are not clean, then he will not get an accurate torque reading.
I am going to be running 200+ shot. not certain yet, but i just bought roller rockers and head studs. There is nothing wrong with the stock bolts , I just want to be sure about those heads not walking or breaking a bolt off. But I have made my mind up, I am going to take the heads all of the way off
Originally Posted by Stang's Bane
If there is any coolant in the bottom of the bolt holes, when he installs the studs they will hydraulic and bust the bottom of the bolt hole out.
Plus, if the threads are not clean, then he will not get an accurate torque reading.
Plus, if the threads are not clean, then he will not get an accurate torque reading.
Hammer
Originally Posted by thehammer69
Ok, we are talking studs here not bolts. I understand the coolant issue which can be taken care of in a second with an air blow nozzle. However, the part of the stud threaded into the block is not a focus of torque. They are not supposed to turn except maybe a little. All the friction is happening where the NUT threads onto the stud and is torqued down. That is why you DON'T have to clean the threads good with studs. Only the exposed thread of the stud itself needs to be clean.
Hammer
Hammer
Originally Posted by thehammer69
Ok, we are talking studs here not bolts. I understand the coolant issue which can be taken care of in a second with an air blow nozzle. However, the part of the stud threaded into the block is not a focus of torque. They are not supposed to turn except maybe a little. All the friction is happening where the NUT threads onto the stud and is torqued down. That is why you DON'T have to clean the threads good with studs. Only the exposed thread of the stud itself needs to be clean.
Hammer
Hammer
Originally Posted by thehammer69
Ok, we are talking studs here not bolts. I understand the coolant issue which can be taken care of in a second with an air blow nozzle. However, the part of the stud threaded into the block is not a focus of torque. They are not supposed to turn except maybe a little. All the friction is happening where the NUT threads onto the stud and is torqued down. That is why you DON'T have to clean the threads good with studs. Only the exposed thread of the stud itself needs to be clean.
Hammer
Hammer
just so there isnt any confusion..
while its only the top that must be clean and broken in, for the torque values.....the threads for the stud in the block must still be clean for proper head retention.
also, any water in there may still cause hydraulic stress/fractures.. unless its frozen with a form of locktite, the stud does tighten some as its being torqued.
