3600 stall?
#1
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I need help finding a good stall...i am planning on getting a 3600 yank stall new,but the price is a little high...i was wondering is it worth it? or is there anther brand of stall that is just as good but cheaper...i have a ms4 cam and UDP, afther i get this stall i am getting LTs and a ory wit elec cut outs then 410s gears...so just looking for best bang for the buck stall...and it will be a weekend car...
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#8
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i have a yank ss3600 on my weekend driver great stall. the 4000 is a little to much for the street imo. might want to try driving it with the 3.23 before going to 4.10s you wont be able to get traction with the 3.23s
#9
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I think with a cam like that (MS4: 239/242, .649"/.609", 111 LSA) your better off talking to one of the converter sponsors before going with the normal 3600,4000 stall. They can work with you and the rear gear to make sure you get everything out of what your paying for.
#14
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...rong-them.html
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fuddle is junk. a few have had good luck with them but its obvious its a shitty TC.
the owner is banned and theyre out of business.
get a converter with a good rep.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/texas-mem...-problems.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/ls1tech-s...le-racing.html
fuddle is junk. a few have had good luck with them but its obvious its a shitty TC.
the owner is banned and theyre out of business.
get a converter with a good rep.
#15
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Changing the gears will help your 60ft if you can grip. Here are some mods you may want to consider including the stall and cooler you are talking about getting.
Driveline
$70 Tranny cooler (will extend the life of your tranny)
$167 Deep Tranny pan (will extend the life of your tranny)
$700 Stall (4000rpm)
$480 Junk Yard 4th Gen Wheels/ Hoosier DR's (255's)
$374 Gears with Installation Kit (3.73 for Daily Driver, 4.10 for weekend/ track car)
$1,791 Sub Total
I didn't see that you've had your throttle body port and polished. If you have some money to throw around, for $65 you could squeeze out a couple more hp.
At this point it looks like chopping down your 60ft will pull your ET down. A good general rule of thumb is that for every tenth you can take off your 60ft, you will reduce your ET by 2 tenths. A good example is my brother's Trans Am. He ran a 13.9 with a 2.3 60ft. We then bolted on drag radials and he pulled a 13.5 with a 2.1 60ft. This went exactly with the theory. Here is a list of suspension mods to help with grip after the stall...
Suspension
$130 UMI panhard rod (on car adjustable)
$300 UMI Sub frame connectors 3 point (Bolt in)
$180 UMI Lower control arms (on car adjustable)
$90 UMI Lower Control arm relocation brackets (bolt in)
$290 UMI torque arm (on car adjustable) w/ installation kit
$600 Rear QA1 Double adjustable drag shocks with stock rear springs
$470 Front QA1 drag springs (275lbs) and Front adjustable Shocks
$2,060 Sub Total
A majority for stalled auto guys that I see run around 1.6 60ft. If you pulled that I'd see you at 11.9-12.1
Driveline
$70 Tranny cooler (will extend the life of your tranny)
$167 Deep Tranny pan (will extend the life of your tranny)
$700 Stall (4000rpm)
$480 Junk Yard 4th Gen Wheels/ Hoosier DR's (255's)
$374 Gears with Installation Kit (3.73 for Daily Driver, 4.10 for weekend/ track car)
$1,791 Sub Total
I didn't see that you've had your throttle body port and polished. If you have some money to throw around, for $65 you could squeeze out a couple more hp.
At this point it looks like chopping down your 60ft will pull your ET down. A good general rule of thumb is that for every tenth you can take off your 60ft, you will reduce your ET by 2 tenths. A good example is my brother's Trans Am. He ran a 13.9 with a 2.3 60ft. We then bolted on drag radials and he pulled a 13.5 with a 2.1 60ft. This went exactly with the theory. Here is a list of suspension mods to help with grip after the stall...
Suspension
$130 UMI panhard rod (on car adjustable)
$300 UMI Sub frame connectors 3 point (Bolt in)
$180 UMI Lower control arms (on car adjustable)
$90 UMI Lower Control arm relocation brackets (bolt in)
$290 UMI torque arm (on car adjustable) w/ installation kit
$600 Rear QA1 Double adjustable drag shocks with stock rear springs
$470 Front QA1 drag springs (275lbs) and Front adjustable Shocks
$2,060 Sub Total
A majority for stalled auto guys that I see run around 1.6 60ft. If you pulled that I'd see you at 11.9-12.1
#16
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...rong-them.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/texas-mem...-problems.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/ls1tech-s...le-racing.html
fuddle is junk. a few have had good luck with them but its obvious its a shitty TC.
the owner is banned and theyre out of business.
get a converter with a good rep.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/texas-mem...-problems.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/ls1tech-s...le-racing.html
fuddle is junk. a few have had good luck with them but its obvious its a shitty TC.
the owner is banned and theyre out of business.
get a converter with a good rep.
#19
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-will have more comfort and safety in road and track
-Help to prolong the life of your transmission
-The numbers on the track will be more constant
#20
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
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There banned because of there business practices not there converters failing, which is supported by every link you posted up. Non of them have anything to do w/ a product failure..I guess I along w/ prostock john that ran on in his 9 second car are a few of the lucky ones...I was just offering the kid a cheaper alt. because he said the yank was pricey...Mine has held up fine.
hes banned because he sucks and what he sold was crap. also supported by those links. no failure problems? maybe you should read those links again. theres more like that but i dont have all day.
when you show me a nine second 1/4 slip ill change my mind till then ill go by what ive read.