Impossible cam sensor problem
#1
Impossible cam sensor problem
So, back again. I've read every single troubleshooting thread on CMP for 01 ws6. Car ran like a raped ape for years. Broke the crank last year, new stroker kit over the winter. Same cam, small bump in compression, also got rid of the underdrive pulley for stock style ls1. Iron 408 stroker, big custom cam. Ls3 heads, ect ect. Like I said, ran great last year. Dropped new motor in it. It'll crank and spit and sputter and fire occasionally but runs like crap, revs up and then dies. It's only throwing P3042 Low voltage circuit for cam. I've tried 3 sensors, backtracked the wires all the way from the sensor it's self to the PCM. Have no breaks in connection. Checked timing kit, cam, relucter wheel on cam, all cyl driver side grounds are on. I'm damn near ready to sell it. It's been weeks of troubleshooting. Please lord someone help. Scanner shows erratic rpm reading while cranking. I have checked the harness on pass front cyl head that has the cam signal running through it. I'm out of ideas and really ready to send this thing to the yard.
#2
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Is the cam sensor In the back of the block or in the front cover on the new motor?
#3
it's in the back of the block. No wire extensions. Someone said that bc i used the PCM as a weight to weigh down the replacement Dash, it sitting in the window in the sun, it may have baked it. But I've also heard pcm issues are incredibly rare.
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Engine bay gets hot too I doubt the dashboard heat did anything. But the low voltage thing could honestly be a pcm issue, which is what I'm leaning towards. Internal power supply kind of issue. Good news is they're cheap.
On the gen3, cam sensor alone won't cause it to run poorly. Just take longer to start.
If you have not yet, verify all your pcm fuses.
On the gen3, cam sensor alone won't cause it to run poorly. Just take longer to start.
If you have not yet, verify all your pcm fuses.
#5
Engine bay gets hot too I doubt the dashboard heat did anything. But the low voltage thing could honestly be a pcm issue, which is what I'm leaning towards. Internal power supply kind of issue. Good news is they're cheap.
On the gen3, cam sensor alone won't cause it to run poorly. Just take longer to start.
If you have not yet, verify all your pcm fuses.
On the gen3, cam sensor alone won't cause it to run poorly. Just take longer to start.
If you have not yet, verify all your pcm fuses.
#6
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I had wondered if you got a 58x crank reluctor by mistake.
Cam sensor codes will prevent tach from working. I went through that on mine. Disabled the code and the tach works again.
Cam sensor codes will prevent tach from working. I went through that on mine. Disabled the code and the tach works again.
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I went back and looked -- for sure I disabled code P0342 to get my tach working. Give that a try. Basically, tach works until that code is set. Once that code sets, tach quits.
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#8
It's definitely a 24x relucter wheel, I have pics of the assembly. So, this is unrelated but I dropped the Ls3 intake off the car when I was assembling everything. Had a pretty knarly cracked. Fixed it, but when It fell it broke the old map sensor off. And I didn't realise for about 2 weeks, so the old broken one disappeared. I replaced it with a factory ls1 style and it fired uo after that. But you said the cam sensor won't make it run like crap? This cam is very big. 250+ duration@ 50. The cam sensor won't make it run bad even with a cam that large? Anything you can think of that would be contributing to it not staying running
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On the gen3 Ecu, the cam sensor is literally a 1 for 180 degrees of cam rotation and a 0 for the other 180. All it does is tell the Ecu if cylinder 1 is on the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke. Without the cam sensor, If after 3 seconds, it does not fire, it automatically switches to the opposite stroke.
The cam sensor does not see the valve events.
Edit - kind of a rare/obscure problem. A friend of mine fought his like crazy. Had a bent tooth on the crank reluctor. No codes. Just refused to run.
The cam sensor does not see the valve events.
Edit - kind of a rare/obscure problem. A friend of mine fought his like crazy. Had a bent tooth on the crank reluctor. No codes. Just refused to run.
#10
On the gen3 Ecu, the cam sensor is literally a 1 for 180 degrees of cam rotation and a 0 for the other 180. All it does is tell the Ecu if cylinder 1 is on the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke. Without the cam sensor, If after 3 seconds, it does not fire, it automatically switches to the opposite stroke.
The cam sensor does not see the valve events.
Edit - kind of a rare/obscure problem. A friend of mine fought his like crazy. Had a bent tooth on the crank reluctor. No codes. Just refused to run.
The cam sensor does not see the valve events.
Edit - kind of a rare/obscure problem. A friend of mine fought his like crazy. Had a bent tooth on the crank reluctor. No codes. Just refused to run.
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In the diagnostic portion of hptuners, the various codes are listed. Find P0342 in the list and set it to "no error reported" and the code will no longer set.
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Who did the baseline tune for this new engine? Was the correct injector data used in new tune?
#14
After replacing stock block with TSP 370 we had identical issues as you state. The installer discovered that he has missed plugging in the map sensor wire harness into the map sensor located on the back of the intake. It plugs in only one way.
Since you state that you replaced the LS3 intake with an LS6 intake you might have lost the orange grommet that creates a seal when you press the map sensor into the hole in the intake. The map sensor snaps into place with tangs to hold it in place. Apply silicone sealer to the grommet.
If the orange rubber grommet was lost in the transition and you didn't notice it was missing from your map sensor, the sensor is not reading vacuum accurately.
IMO get a new map sensor - but - some come packaged with the orange grommet - some do not.
So you have to buy the orange rubber grommet. It's pricey at about $10. See pic below.
Some sensors come with lock down tangs on both sides. I had to grind off the tabs on one side to hold it in place when in you install it. See pic below.
Make sure that the small vacuum tube is connected to the HVAC for shutter door air control. If you have removed your ac you cap the vacuum tube. If not make sure the vacuum tube is connected below the map sensor.
The map sensor operation is based on supplying 5 volts of DC power to the sensor from the PCM (Power System Control Module). Inside the MAP sensor is a resistor that moves in response to the intake manifold pressure. The resistor alters the voltage between 1V and 4.5V (depending on engine load), and the voltage signal returns to the PCM to indicate manifold pressure (vacuum). This signal is required by the PCM to determine fuel delivery and is occasionally used to determine whether the EGR valve is functioning properly.
Since you state that you replaced the LS3 intake with an LS6 intake you might have lost the orange grommet that creates a seal when you press the map sensor into the hole in the intake. The map sensor snaps into place with tangs to hold it in place. Apply silicone sealer to the grommet.
If the orange rubber grommet was lost in the transition and you didn't notice it was missing from your map sensor, the sensor is not reading vacuum accurately.
IMO get a new map sensor - but - some come packaged with the orange grommet - some do not.
So you have to buy the orange rubber grommet. It's pricey at about $10. See pic below.
Some sensors come with lock down tangs on both sides. I had to grind off the tabs on one side to hold it in place when in you install it. See pic below.
Make sure that the small vacuum tube is connected to the HVAC for shutter door air control. If you have removed your ac you cap the vacuum tube. If not make sure the vacuum tube is connected below the map sensor.
The map sensor operation is based on supplying 5 volts of DC power to the sensor from the PCM (Power System Control Module). Inside the MAP sensor is a resistor that moves in response to the intake manifold pressure. The resistor alters the voltage between 1V and 4.5V (depending on engine load), and the voltage signal returns to the PCM to indicate manifold pressure (vacuum). This signal is required by the PCM to determine fuel delivery and is occasionally used to determine whether the EGR valve is functioning properly.
Last edited by dlandsvZ28; 06-19-2022 at 03:22 PM. Reason: edit content
#16
"So, this is unrelated but I dropped the Ls3 intake off the car when I was assembling everything. Had a pretty knarly cracked. Fixed it, but when It fell it broke the old map sensor off. And I didn't realise for about 2 weeks, so the old broken one disappeared. I replaced it with a factory ls1 style and it fired uo after that."
It's difficult to determine which sensor the OP used to replace the LS3 sensor. Or what cracked - the intake manifold housing for the sensor or the sensor itself. It's my understanding you have to use an adapter to use an LS1 sensor. Some say the pigtail plug end has to be changed as well.
Don't know if the post is accurate.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...e-harness.html
Different sensors as well dependent on intake manifold
https://ls1tech.com/forums/pontiac-g...manifolds.html
Not sure is the last post is accurate - post 11.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...nsor-help.html
Last edited by dlandsvZ28; 06-20-2022 at 08:52 AM. Reason: edit content
#18
#19
OP: did you read my previous post with all of the links. If not please read those again. In one of the links it states the LS1 sensor is different than the LS3 sensor (internally). If you are NA - you should use a 1 bar map sensor.
There are two intake manifolds with rectangular ports - the L76 and the L3. If you have the L76 intake the sensor clips on the front of the intake. If you have the L3 the sensor in held in place with a bolt on the front of the intake. Which one do you have?
The L76—like its LS2 sibling—is a 6.0L, Gen. 4, aluminum small block engine that was used both in GM cars and trucks. The L76 is an adapted version of the LS2, featuring new rectangle port cylinder heads.
IMO you need to find out which sensor will work with your current PCM and pigtail plug end. In the links above some say yes, some say no.
Since the map sensor on the LS6 intake is in the back of the intake and the LS3 sensor is on the front of the intake, did you use an adapter harness with enough length to reach the front LS3 sensor? There are adapter harness's available to make the switch from LS1 style to LS3 sensor.
There are two intake manifolds with rectangular ports - the L76 and the L3. If you have the L76 intake the sensor clips on the front of the intake. If you have the L3 the sensor in held in place with a bolt on the front of the intake. Which one do you have?
The L76—like its LS2 sibling—is a 6.0L, Gen. 4, aluminum small block engine that was used both in GM cars and trucks. The L76 is an adapted version of the LS2, featuring new rectangle port cylinder heads.
IMO you need to find out which sensor will work with your current PCM and pigtail plug end. In the links above some say yes, some say no.
Since the map sensor on the LS6 intake is in the back of the intake and the LS3 sensor is on the front of the intake, did you use an adapter harness with enough length to reach the front LS3 sensor? There are adapter harness's available to make the switch from LS1 style to LS3 sensor.
#20