Mach at the track
#1341
#1342
#1349
Thats what im saying good for your car ya but the time not so much. Probably benifit the most from good drag shocks. Lowering that 60' is core.
Last edited by sepno77; 04-19-2013 at 10:46 AM.
#1350
Plan for this season
I feel this will drop my 60' quite a bit and get me damn near 11's with no added power mods. We will see.
- battle boxes going in to bullet proof damage to rear
- going to raise RPM launch 1,000rpms
- adjustable struts
- coil overs on front
- adjustable lower control arm mounts
I feel this will drop my 60' quite a bit and get me damn near 11's with no added power mods. We will see.
Just do the above, weld the axle tubes and a girdle and you're done. Well that and a good diff.
-Mark
#1351
Save your money on battle boxes. Just find a good welder and have them put a solid bead around the stock boxes. Then drill out the control arm holes on the body side so that a 5/8" bolt will fit it. I did this and 450+ dumps at 6800+ and no signs of any tears.
Just do the above, weld the axle tubes and a girdle and you're done. Well that and a good diff.
-Mark
Just do the above, weld the axle tubes and a girdle and you're done. Well that and a good diff.
-Mark
#1353
Hio, would you be willing to list ALL the mods done to your car? Including all of your backyard mechanic stuff (home ported, TB, intake, manifold, etc), all the "creating" weight reduction, basically anything that is not as it came from the factory. I really am curious how your car runs that fast.
LOL. You can't even rebuild your own water pump? Takes a good...I dunno...30 minutes or less to change a O-ring, gasket, and seal. Sure doesn't take an entire race season to do it. And I would love to know what "changes" Meizure has in store to make your water pump better than everyone else. You're a funny guy man. You always give me good Lol'z when I need them.
You don't need them. I don't have them...notch don't have them either. Invest in some good shocks......and not that 90/10 junk.
Save your money on battle boxes. Just find a good welder and have them put a solid bead around the stock boxes. Then drill out the control arm holes on the body side so that a 5/8" bolt will fit it. I did this and 450+ dumps at 6800+ and no signs of any tears.
Just do the above, weld the axle tubes and a girdle and you're done. Well that and a good diff.
-Mark
Just do the above, weld the axle tubes and a girdle and you're done. Well that and a good diff.
-Mark
#1354
after being in the shop for multiple box area welding/upgrading.... i can say id most likely rather make some plates to reinforce that area. I would not trust just welds. Metal is too thin. You might make 500 passes on them and not tear... but it will happen over time...even if that means twisting up the body near the boxes. If theres one thing i know, its metals and welding...After all, its what pays my bills and gets me my toys
#1356
#1357
I just hope it works out as well as those ported manifolds. You trailer park guys have all the tricks dammit.
#1358
I've been saying it for the past 130k... I'm pretty much retarded though... (I did buy an fbody).
Really? I've always heard they are one of the first things you should do.
Really? I've always heard they are one of the first things you should do.
#1359
from everything I've read, SFC's are not worth it as far as speed goes on a car with less than 400WHP.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...ut-sfcs-6.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...ut-sfcs-6.html
#1360
from everything I've read, SFC's are not worth it as far as speed goes on a car with less than 400WHP.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...ut-sfcs-6.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...ut-sfcs-6.html