Different torque arm?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
Different torque arm? I'm currently running a UMI adjustable tunnel mount torque arm with the driveshaft saftey loop and do not like this product. The car is a 97 Z28 M6, stock suspension, LS1 driveshaft.
Followed installation instructions that were in the kit, but the loop and 90 degree bend are coming in contact with the driveshaft. I also installed a new trans mount when I got this torque arm. I also do not like the excessive noise coming from the front of the mount.
For those of you who have this torque arm, have you had to make any modifications to it to clear the rotation of the driveshaft?
What other torque arms have better functionality and less driveability issues?
Followed installation instructions that were in the kit, but the loop and 90 degree bend are coming in contact with the driveshaft. I also installed a new trans mount when I got this torque arm. I also do not like the excessive noise coming from the front of the mount.
For those of you who have this torque arm, have you had to make any modifications to it to clear the rotation of the driveshaft?
What other torque arms have better functionality and less driveability issues?
TECH Resident
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 827
Likes: 0
From: Dallas, TX
I'm currently running a UMI adjustable tunnel mount torque arm with the driveshaft saftey loop and do not like this product. The car is a 97 Z28 M6, stock suspension, LS1 driveshaft.
Followed installation instructions that were in the kit, but the loop and 90 degree bend are coming in contact with the driveshaft. I also installed a new trans mount when I got this torque arm. I also do not like the excessive noise coming from the front of the mount.
For those of you who have this torque arm, have you had to make any modifications to it to clear the rotation of the driveshaft?
What other torque arms have better functionality and less driveability issues?
Followed installation instructions that were in the kit, but the loop and 90 degree bend are coming in contact with the driveshaft. I also installed a new trans mount when I got this torque arm. I also do not like the excessive noise coming from the front of the mount.
For those of you who have this torque arm, have you had to make any modifications to it to clear the rotation of the driveshaft?
What other torque arms have better functionality and less driveability issues?
Try replacement that poly trans mount with a factory rubber mount. A lot of time the poly mounts are the cause of vibration issues because they are firmer and can also change the driveline angle. Also what size drive shaft are you running?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
The lower shackle bolt and nut have actually made groves into the ds and weight. There is currently maybe 1mm of clearance after carving into the ds.
One thing to do is turn the bolt around so the nut is facing away from the drive shaft. Also the crossmember has slots where it mounts to the car.. you can use these slots to budge the crossmember over as well to get it away from the drive shaft. Do you know if anyone ever put a larger drive shaft on it? We don't recommend using anything larger than 3". Also what rear end is in the car? What is your pinion angle set at?
Thanks,
Ryan
Thanks,
Ryan
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
One thing to do is turn the bolt around so the nut is facing away from the drive shaft. Also the crossmember has slots where it mounts to the car.. you can use these slots to budge the crossmember over as well to get it away from the drive shaft. Do you know if anyone ever put a larger drive shaft on it? We don't recommend using anything larger than 3". Also what rear end is in the car? What is your pinion angle set at?
Thanks,
Ryan
Thanks,
Ryan
The slots on mine only allow it to move front and back, not side to side.
The ds is the stock one from a 02 WS6. Factory 10bolt and pinion is set to -1.
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Yes the bolt may come in contact with the tunnel, depending on the vehicle height... but the tunnel is better than the drive shaft. Also it sounds like the weight on the drive shaft is some of the issue.. like its mounted back further than usual. The slots on the cross-member are for side to side movement and not back and forth... they are slotted right to left to allow it to be moved side to side if needed. You might have some movement left to get the shackle bolt away from the drive shaft. Also does your shackles have two sets of mounting holes or one? If you have two you might want to use the lower set of holes.. this will move the bolt away from the weight on the drive shaft. If you have the older shackles with only one set of holes the torque arm is already in the lowest holes.
For the noise issues, it can be a combination of things. First tighten those shackle bolts tighter than the instructions saw... also the rod eye bolts may need to be tighter. They rod eyes are mounted between two 3/8" thick plate and it takes a lot of pressure to compress this and hold the rod eyes in place. I would like for you to call in and speak with Jerry in our technical support department and describe it.. he can then make some suggestions on what to look at. He is out of the office until Tuesday for his wedding.
For the noise issues, it can be a combination of things. First tighten those shackle bolts tighter than the instructions saw... also the rod eye bolts may need to be tighter. They rod eyes are mounted between two 3/8" thick plate and it takes a lot of pressure to compress this and hold the rod eyes in place. I would like for you to call in and speak with Jerry in our technical support department and describe it.. he can then make some suggestions on what to look at. He is out of the office until Tuesday for his wedding.
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