Need help....
#1
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Need help....
Okay, before anyone hollers at me for not searching, i've searched alot, and have come up with quite a different setups and opinions. I need help choosing the springs/shocks for my TA. It's a 2000, and I have 18: c5's on it with 265/35/18 Falken tires on it. The &^%$* guy at the tire place said it was the right tire for the 18x9.5 rim, BUT the tire isn't as wide as the rim, so the rim protectors don't protect the rim, and I have next to nothing as a sidewall. Since putting the tires/rims on the car, I have a ugly wheelwell gap, and it has the suspension travel of a train. Since I am in the middle of another stereo upgrade, I also have a budget of $600-$700. Here are my goals: I want better ride quality, so I don't lose my fillings, and I want it to be lower, so the wheelwell gap doesn't look so ghetto. I have heard that the stock DeCarbon shocks are garbage, and also that aftermarket shocks will stiffen the ride some. I don't need it any more stiff than it is now. Should I go with the Eibach prokit, and install Decarbon take-offs from SLP, or it there an adjustable shock out there that doesnt cost $250 each? -Thank you for your help. BTW, the sig pic has been lowered by photoshop.
Last edited by Snootch; 07-01-2004 at 01:33 PM.
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If you just do the shocks, this https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/180216-new-street-suspension-setup-strano-koni-bilstien-plus-some-deviation-norm.html could fit within your budget. I am estatic about how much it improved the ride and handling of my car.
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So you spent $800 on shocks and a anti-roll bar. A little $$ for me right now, I guess i'd have to wait and save. What size rims/tires do you have? Did you have the same problems as me beforehand, i'm not sure that a 3/4front 1/2back drop will be enough. I hear you about the rear end coming sideways over broken pavement though, my main gripe is the rock solid ride with the small sidewall I have. So you think this will cure my ills? If so, what were the part/model #s of the shocks and bar. -Sorry for the 21 questions, -Thanks for your help.
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Short rubber is why your ride quality sucks I reckon.
Stiffer shock bump rate will only make it worse. But
if you go with stiffer springs (and all lowering springs
are stiffer, otherwise you'd bottom) you need more
damping than the Decarbons provide (being tuned
for the stock spring rate).
I think you should get the 265/35/18s demounted,
buy some charcoal lighter fluid and burn them on
said tire dude's front lawn, and get yourself some
better rubber that isn't so kooky-lo-profile. On the
other hand, if you went back and bitched at the
manager enough about the bad salesman advice,
point out the improper width and call it a safety
concern, maybe they'd give you full or partial credit
toward -proper- meats, if you didn't burn them.
Stiffer shock bump rate will only make it worse. But
if you go with stiffer springs (and all lowering springs
are stiffer, otherwise you'd bottom) you need more
damping than the Decarbons provide (being tuned
for the stock spring rate).
I think you should get the 265/35/18s demounted,
buy some charcoal lighter fluid and burn them on
said tire dude's front lawn, and get yourself some
better rubber that isn't so kooky-lo-profile. On the
other hand, if you went back and bitched at the
manager enough about the bad salesman advice,
point out the improper width and call it a safety
concern, maybe they'd give you full or partial credit
toward -proper- meats, if you didn't burn them.
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Originally Posted by Snootch
So you spent $800 on shocks and a anti-roll bar. A little $$ for me right now, I guess i'd have to wait and save. What size rims/tires do you have? Did you have the same problems as me beforehand, i'm not sure that a 3/4front 1/2back drop will be enough. I hear you about the rear end coming sideways over broken pavement though, my main gripe is the rock solid ride with the small sidewall I have. So you think this will cure my ills? If so, what were the part/model #s of the shocks and bar. -Sorry for the 21 questions, -Thanks for your help.
My problems beforehand were a rough ride over sharp bumps and wallowing over large undulations. I wanted better ride quality 1st, and if I could get better handling and a touch of lowering, that's just gravy. I got it all.
Now, I am on 245/50/16 Firehawk SZ50 EPs. So your ride will be some degree harsher than mine, just because of sidewall height. But if you want to lower it a touch, improve the ride, and get better handling all in one, I highly recommend this setup.
If you want it lower than the 3/4 front 1/2 rear drop, you'll have to do springs as well as shocks.
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Originally Posted by jimmyblue
Short rubber is why your ride quality sucks I reckon.
Stiffer shock bump rate will only make it worse. But
if you go with stiffer springs (and all lowering springs
are stiffer, otherwise you'd bottom) you need more
damping than the Decarbons provide (being tuned
for the stock spring rate).
I think you should get the 265/35/18s demounted,
buy some charcoal lighter fluid and burn them on
said tire dude's front lawn, and get yourself some
better rubber that isn't so kooky-lo-profile.
Stiffer shock bump rate will only make it worse. But
if you go with stiffer springs (and all lowering springs
are stiffer, otherwise you'd bottom) you need more
damping than the Decarbons provide (being tuned
for the stock spring rate).
I think you should get the 265/35/18s demounted,
buy some charcoal lighter fluid and burn them on
said tire dude's front lawn, and get yourself some
better rubber that isn't so kooky-lo-profile.
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They are Koni Sport Single Adjustables. I got them from Sam Strano at http://www.stranoparts.com in a package that included the Bilstiens for the rear - there are a few different Bilstiens out there, Sam gives you one that has valving well matched to the Koni's. Also, if you call him on the tech line, he'll answer any question you have.
For ride purposes, you don't need to upgrade the bar. And depending on the mileage on your car, you may not need new bushings and such, I have 113K miles, that's why I did them. So you can save some money there.
I agree that your tires are contributing to the problem, but I had a rough ride even with 245/50/16s. So a good bit of the fault lies with the stock shocks.
For ride purposes, you don't need to upgrade the bar. And depending on the mileage on your car, you may not need new bushings and such, I have 113K miles, that's why I did them. So you can save some money there.
I agree that your tires are contributing to the problem, but I had a rough ride even with 245/50/16s. So a good bit of the fault lies with the stock shocks.
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Originally Posted by Snootch
Okay, I guess I'll save the $600 and give him a call on those. My car has 52K on it, BTW. Thanks alot for your help, I really appreciate it.