bmf5150

Wooohooo!!!no better feeling then to hear it run or the test drive!!!

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Cant wait to do the test drive! I bet your stoked being able to drive yours around. I have a couple of days before all that will happen. I need to finish up some wiring, loom everything, put the interior back together etc. etc. I really need to hook up the OBD2 connector and see if there any codes flashing. I notice the hotter it got the higher the idle went. At least I know I assembled the engine correctly and the guy that originally wired the PCM at least made the right connections. As soon as it is road worthy again I will break in the rings and check for leaks then its off to the dyno for a good thorough tune. At that point we are off to the strip to see what shes got. Prolly start off in the eighth and then try it out on a 1/4 mile. I would like to see a 11 second pass in the 1/4. Then I will be a happy camper. I see you are already wanting to add a supercharger, I hear ya!

tango68ss

Tone,

SOUNDS AWESOME!! I can't wait to see it out of the shack and running on the street! I'm hoping to be a few weeks behind you. We are wiring up the car now. I've decided to put the PCM under the fender where the batt went. I've re-located the batt to the trunk. Haven't laid out the harness yet... hoping we don't have to lengthen it like you did

Keep up the great work!
TC

Steve68

iTrader: (23)

Man thats sounds BAD ***!!! makes me wanna go work on my car!!!

Congrats!X10

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

Congrats on getting her fired up! Now go button up those loose ends so we can see the first burnout in the next video.

BillB

That is awesome, and I know you are totally pumped about getting it started. I keep seeing more success stories (eventually) than failures (bad engine, etc.), and it makes me more anxious to get a plan in order to convert my '69 to an LS motor. You guys are all an inspiration.

Keep up the great work!

Bill B.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Thanks everyone! I am out in the garage now wiring in the tach, OBD2, check engine light etc. Then its wiring the radio back in and putting the interior all back together. Its a big relief to hear it run and yes I am pumped now. I think tomorrow is going to be a day off from her so I can relax at the lake just a bit. Thanks again and good luck to all of you guys doing the same thing to your cars. If I can be of any help just ask. I am no expert but maybe I can throw some tidbits your way.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

That is a great feeling for sure. It sounds happy and healthy. Just wait until you feel the power!

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

I have a question for you guys: The wire from the PCM for the MIL, is it a ground or is it a positive?

ls68firebird

wishfull thinking. got a sneaking suspicion that you're mind won't be anywhere near the water and the boat will develop a "weird" noise (wink, wink) so you have to come home early. then by dark you will be elbow deep in your car. At least that's how i would do it.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like a plan!!! The only problem is once on the lake there wont be no leaving until dark. Its the fourth of July fireworks deal and I will be blocked from leaving. I will be getting up bright and early to finish what I can on Sunday and if not done then it will be Tuesday. Hopefully no codes are flashing and I can take it down the road.

OldCobraGuy

iTrader: (2)

That's an interesting question. Looking at on 01 F Body, it shows a diode in that circuit at the instrument panel that allows electron flow TO the PCM. That tells me that it should be hot and the PCM grounds it to turn the light on. That also follows the prevalent logic of ground side switching. However, what I can't find anywhere is whether or not it is 12V or regulated down to 5V etc. It appears to be 12V, but that's not conclusive. It just doesn't give me the power source. Let me do some more looking. Don't want to mess that one up and fry your PCM...

OldCobraGuy

iTrader: (2)

Ok...it appears I may have lied to you. There may not be a diode...the MIL light appears to be an LED...which we know is a diode. But it really does appear to be grounded by the PCM. I just can't find the voltage on the circuit.

Here's what I would do. You are looking for the brown and white wire on pin 46 of connector 2 at the PCM. I'm sorry, but I don't know which connector color that is of the two PCM connectors. But I'll bet only one pin 46 is brown and white. I would get me a good quality digital meter and see if that pin doesn't go to ground when you turn the key on. (MIL is supposed to be on) If so, you have half the battle won. My car is not available to check right now, but if someone could go see what the voltage is on that circuit on an operating car, that would answer our question. You would need to check it with the car running and no MIL indications. (if you had the MIL light on, the voltage would read zero)

bmf5150

Here is the instructions that came with my street and performance,it says check engine light is hot!

frojoe

iTrader: (10)

Wow this looks good... and sounds even better! Nice job!

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

I just hooked up my MIL light the other day and I have a 2006 GTO stock harness with the E40 PCM that was reworked by Wait4meperformance and my wire is a brown wire with a white stripe and it is hooked up to pin #4 on connector C1 and it puts out a negative 12 volt signal. So when I turn the key to the start position it has a negative 12 volts and illuminates the MIL light and then when I start the engine the negative 12volts is gone, meaning the MIL turns off.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the info! Is it saying the circuit is 12v or is it saying the brown wire is actually a hot 12v wire?


I am confused here also. Are you say negative 12v as it is a ground? I am not real smart at these type of things and the only thing I can do with my limited knowledge is to cut the key to on and check for a voltage on this wire. I have read in a few places other than here on LS1Tech that it is a ground and a standard bulb must be used or you can use an LED but you need to wire in a resistor on the hot side because the PCM is looking for a certain amount of draw that an LED cannot provide. If the resistor is not used then the PCM will flash a MIL malfunction code. Sorry guys you are dealing with a moron here, me!!!

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Thanks!

Thanks everyone for your help up to this point! I couldn't have done it without you guys!!! Of course I am not done and will still be on here frequently. I just hope I can return the favor to each and everyone of you! Next on the agenda after all these loose ends are done is the Vintage Air. I will have a complete description of my experience with that. I am sure it wont be the easiest thing but to have air conditioning it will be worth it. After that I will be either using a power adder or start a short block build with the tune of 454 cubic inches. Got LSX block on my mind or the new RHS block. There is something about N/A engines making big power that has always intrigued me but to hear a whistle or two that does the same thing thing for me! All said and done I will be here for quite some time and if I can help any of you guys out feel free to ask.

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

My mil light I installed in my dash has a constant 12 volts positive going to it when I turn the key to the on position and also when it is in the run position. And also with the key in this position my PCM sends the negative to the ground side of my mil light and then when I turn the key to the run (start) ( engine running) position the negative goes away which then turns the mil light off due to the absence of the negative signal from the PCM, meaning all is good and working properly, and I don't have a mil light on, also known as a check engine light. I see in the other post with the instruction sheet it clearly states it is a positive signal from the PCM to the mil light, I can't say wether that is correct or not but on mine which is a reworked 2006 GTO harness & E40 PCM with a LS2 & T56 that my signal from my PCM is definitely the ground. I hope this helps.

OldCobraGuy

iTrader: (2)

That sounds exactly right...and how I see it. It's also the same color wire...just a different pin position due to a different vehicle. Actually, that may be the same pin position as a V6 F body. Regardless, 12V is supplied to the MIL. The MIL light is grounded by the PCM. The only question I really had was the voltage...and if you have it in writing it's 12V, that's good enough for me. That's how I would do it.

lizeec....we're not sure what you mean by 'negative 12v'. If you hook your volt meter up backwards, it reads negative. But in this case, I believe you are trying to tell us that you mean 'ground', correct? Your terminology isn't one normally seen on automotive systems like this.