Old School LSx 1967 Camaro
Here's the Pro-Touring build thread: http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/8...ETAL-67-Camaro
Here's the Team Camaro thread with every detail: http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=173910
I'm going to copy and paste a lot of this from other threads, so don't get excited when it looks like it's all coming together very quickly. The majority of this swap was performed between Jan '13-July '13. The Camaro has been up and running since mid summer.
I bought the '67 Camaro already painted, but it had a stock suspension, 10 bolt rear, 15" wheels, drum brakes, a tired 80's 350 truck engine, etc. I spent the first year or so upgrading just about everything on the car.
Here's a list of what I have done over the past 2 years including the LS Swap:
-2004 Cadillac Escalade 6.0l (364 ci) LQ9 engine
-Total Engine Airflow Stage 2 ported LS2 heads
-Comp Cams 231/235 .617/.621 108LSA
-Edelbrock Vic Jr. LS1 intake
-Accufab 4150 4 barrel throttle body
-Edelbrock Coil Covers
-BeCool radiator
-2004 Pontiac GTO 6 speed T56 transmission
-Monster Stage 2 clutch
-McLeod Hydraulic adjustable clutch master cylinder
-Wilwood Tandem brake master cylinder
-1967 Camaro 12 bolt posi w/3.31's
-SpeedTech Upper & Lower tubular control arms
-Hotchkis 1.5" multileafs
-Bilstein shocks
-Hotchkis front & rear sway bar
-Hotchkis subframe connectors
-Wilwood 12" drilled/slotted rotors w/6 piston & 4 piston calipers
-18x8 & 18x9 Foose Legend wheels
-Nitto NT555 245/40/18 & 275//40/18 tires
-Custom New Vintage USA gauges
-Scat ProCar Rally seats
-Morris Classic Concepts 3 point seat belts
-Screamin' Performance kick panels
-Alpine 6.5" and 6x9" speakers
-2 Infinity 12" subs
-3 Alpine Amps
-RetroElectro RS headlight kit
-Optima Yellow Top battery relocated to trunk...
Last edited by 67rally; Dec 13, 2013 at 11:16 AM.

And here's the freshly painted turd of an engine:

And the interior:

If someone tells you it has just been rebuilt and puts fresh paint on it, that doesn't mean that it's true. I did an H/C/I on the old 350, and found sludge in the heads, and eventually spun a rod bearing on a test and tune.
My first thought was to stroke it out to a 383 and be happy with it, but I got bitten with the LS bug.
Here's how the motor looked just before the swap. I had upgraded the engine quite a bit, so I knew I could sell a lot of the parts off to help with the swap:

FROM THIS POINT ON, ANYTHING QUOTED IS TAKEN FROM ANOTHER BUILD THREAD
I have sold off a bunch of the old engine parts...heads, intake, carb, alternator, distributor, cam/lifters/timing chain, along with some other random stuff lying around and it will basically pay for the LQ9 that I am going to pick up tomorrow!!!! I have spent a ridiculous amount of hours searching for the right engine and I finally found it!
I am heading out tomorrow afternoon to pick up a nice clean LQ9 dropout from an '04 Cadillac Escalade. It will include the Alt, AC, PS pump, ECU, Wiring harness, gas pedal, TAK (throttle control) module, MAF sensor, O2 sensors, airbox, etc. The LQ9 is essentially an iron block LS2, and in stock form it has 10:1 compression and produces 345 hp and 380 lb-ft tq.:hurray:
Of course, I'm not going to leave it in stock form......

I also have a T56 from an '04 GTO arriving shortly. The '04 GTO T56 is a step up from the '98-02 F-body T56's. This one has the same triple cone synchro's that the LS1/LS6 Corvette's have. It also has a 1st gear ratio of 2.97:1 which combined with my 3.31's will give me a final drive ratio of 9.83:1. That should be just about perfect.
FWIW here are the LS1 T56 F-body vs GTO gear ratios:
F-body: 2.66, 1.78, 1.30, 1.00, .74, .50
G T O : 2.97, 2.07, 1.43, 1.00, .84, .57
This should also make a shorter drop from 4th to 5th which will be nice, but still a very low 6th ratio.
Tomorrow I'm going to push the Camaro out of the garage and pull the old engine block so I can start cleaning up the engine bay. My plan is to sand the subframe and anything else that needs cleanup down to bare metal, prime and paint while the engine is out. I'd also like to get the new LQ9 off the wooden stand and onto my engine stand and start dismantling it.
Here's a couple of the before shots. Trust me, it won't look anything like this once it goes into the engine bay:



Trending Topics
It took a litte longer than planned. I was going to remove the engine and tranny as one unit, but I couldn't get access to my shifter to get it off. The handle is welded to the shifter, the shifter hole is tiny so I couldn't access it from above, and couldn't get to one of the bolts from below. Anyways, I managed to pull the engine and bellhousing as a unit, then remove the shifter, then drop the driveshaft, and finally drop the tranny and remove the crossmember. It'll be quite a while before the new engine and tranny go it, but at least now I can start detailing the engine bay. Time for a beer.:beers:
Prepping for surgery:

Ready for removal:

Up, up and away:


It's officially out:

The old and the new:

The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Before:

Harness removed:

Coil packs, exhaust manifolds and fan removed:

Here's the jumble of wires that will be someone else's problem:

While I was at it, I pulled the valve covers. I just didn't want to see any nasty sludge build up, and was pleased to see this:

The transmission arrives (sort of):
T56:

I ordered a new GTO starter for the LQ9 from someone on LS1tech. I have a GTO bellhousing and it turns out that the GTO starter is smaller in diameter than any other LS starter. So my choice was to get an F-body bellhousing or a GTO starter. I opted for the new starter.
My new throttle body arrived a few days ago, and I just ordered my new intake and fuel rails. I'll post pics when I'm ready to unveil...
Last thing is I just won an eBay auction for a nice set of 243 (LS2) heads. The heads flow a little better than the 317's that come on the LQ9, but they also have smaller combustion chambers.
The LQ4 has a 9.5:1 compression ratio, the LQ9 has flat top pistons which bump it to 10.1:1 and with the 243's I'll be right at 11 or 11.1:1.
I also PM'd with Don from Slowhawk down in Bridgewater and he's going to set me up with an initial program just to get me running, and then I'll head down there for a custom tune.
I'm just getting all my ducks in a row, it'll still be a couple months before I have all my parts and can begin the actual swap. Hoping for some warm weather so I can finish tearing down the engine and really cleaning up/painting the block.
Last edited by 67rally; Jan 2, 2014 at 05:39 PM.
Before:

After:

If the other one comes tomorrow, I am shipping them off to Advanced Induction out of Concord, NC for their 232cc Full CNC Porting Package.
Check out these
Flow Figures (I/E):
.100: 69/53
.200: 146/115
.300: 214/157
.400: 258/204
.500: 293/256
.550: 301/265
.600: 305/271
.650: 309/275
.700: 315/277
Here's one of the heads before they clean it up and port it:



So, I got in touch with Mike from Total Engine Airflow and he's going to do their Stage 2 Full CNC Porting Package. I shipped the heads out this morning, and he should have them by Thursday. TEA is the other big name in porting LSx heads, and after exchanging a few emails and a phone call I feel so much better than I did with AI.
They'll hot tank and bead blast the heads, do a full cnc stage 2 port, competition multi angle valve job. Then they'll flow the heads, do a blend valve job and reassemble with my .650 spring, mill the heads to 63cc, install Ferrea 2.04/1.575 (slightly larger) valves. They're also supplying a custom ground camshaft, pushrods, head gaskets, ARP head bolts, LS7 lifters, lifter guides, and a ported high volume GMPP oil pump.
Here are TEA's flow numbers:
Lift: Intake/Exhaust
.100: 67/54
.200: 139/120
.300: 219/179
.400: 271/224
.500: 308/248
.550: 315/255
.600: 320/260

I power washed my T56 and the GTO bell housing so I could paint them. I heard a little rattle inside the T56 that didn't sound right, so I pulled the end of the housing off and found this piece floating around and brought it to a local transmission shop, they're going to look at it next week. One of the guys on LS1tech thinks it's part of the shift rail interlock plate and I'm sure it got damaged by UPS when the lost my clutch and everything else. They're only around $40, but the labor is going to cost more $$$.

At least the inside of the tranny looks good:

And I got the bellhousing cleaned up and painted with an 'Aluminum' ceramic engine paint:

The tank comes powdercoated in a silver/aluminum finish, I may paint it black like my last one, undecided right now:

Here's the baffle inside the tank (to prevent fuel starvation) looking into the fuel pump hole:

Sender, Walbro 255, etc.:


I'm hoping to mock up the tank this weekend and measure for fuel hoses. I'm going to be using PTFE lines that are custom cut to length with the fittings already installed just for peace of mind. The rest of the fittings and the Corvette filter/regulator are on their way from Summit, and should be here tomorrow afternoon.
Walbro 255 pump:

Sender and float:

Installed:

Driver's side:

Passenger's side:

Comparison between the new LS1 headers and my old SBC headers:

Flanges on the new headers:

I cleaned it up with a variety of wire brushes and dremel attachments. I left the heads, intake and oil pan on, but taped them up. I won't be using any of them for my build, but I know the heads and intake have some re-sale value. Hopefully the new heads/cam/oil pump, etc arrive later this month. I already have the new intake and throttle body ready to go as soon as I get my new heads. (yes, I know the timing chain cover will have to come off and ruin my new paint job, easy fix).
I sprayed it with Duplicolor engine primer and ceramic RED engine paint. I broke the rules, it's not orange, but hopefully the Chevy guys will still talk to me!
Here it is all taped up:

And with the tape removed:

I drained (11 gallons) and dropped the old fuel tank, and removed the Holley Black fuel pump. Mocked up the new corvette bypass regulator, which will sit right where the Holly pump was mounted. Then I mocked up the new Tanks Inc. tank, and figured out exactly how and where I was going to run my fuel plumbing. I'll order the new PTFE hoses this week.
Here's a pic of the Wix 33737 fuel filter/regulator along with a few Russell fittings. The 640940 is a -6AN to 3/8" quick disconnect male fitting, the 644113 is a -6AN male to 5/16" quick disconnect female fitting, and the 644123 is a -6AN male to 3/8" quick disconnect female fitting.


And here's a pic of the tank mocked up. I left it in it's baggie because I didn't want to bang it up too badly since it will be in an out a couple of times. I think I'm going to leave it silver and paint or order some new tank straps.

-I won an auction for a set of freshly rebuilt Bosch 36lb injectors (which will be 42lb at my psi)
-I ordered my PTFE lined braided fuel hoses from Lyons Performance for the supply and return lines from the regulator to the tank, the output line from the regulator to the hard line, as well as one to connect the fuel rails. I'll order the one from the front hardline to the fuel rail once the motor is in.
-I ordered my Energy Suspension poly motor mounts from Summit Racing.
-I ordered a set of Dirty Dingo slider mounts, so I will have 2 1/2" of front to back adjustability.
-I won an auction a new serpentine belt for the new layout of the accessories.
-I ordered a new water pump from an L99 Camaro from Rock Auto, which uses the truck accessory offset, but places the outlet on the driver's side instead of the passenger's side.
-And my freshly ported heads, cam, push rods, head gaskets, ported oil pump, etc. should ship out from Total Engine Airflow tomorrow.
Part #'s 3945507 and 3945508:

The sliders are very nice and allow 2" (not 2 1/2" as I previously stated) of forward to backward engine placement. The slider attaches to the engine, then the motor mount attaches to the slider and the frame mount.
Here's one of the Dirty Dingo Slider's in powdercoated black:

Here it is with the ES motor mount:

And here it is mocked up with the frame mounts as well (driver's side):

Last edited by 67rally; Dec 12, 2013 at 02:13 PM.
This is the water pump for the 2010+ L99 Camaro (#19207665). It uses the same accessory spacing as the truck motors:


I dropped the new tank, got it wired up, ran the new hoses, and reinstalled everything. I took my time and did it right. All connections are soldered and heat shrinked. The PTFE (Teflon) lined fuel hoses are nice and tidy.
New hoses and wiring:

Corvette Fuel Filter/Regulator plumbed:

I fabricated a bracket for the Tanks Inc. check valve. This closes the fuel vent incase you flip the car over, so the fuel won't pour out. I don't want to test this feature out:

I mounted behind the license plate up high and out of the way. I T'd into the existing fuel vent that is on the RideTech filler neck:

And here's a shot of the new tank. It looks just like a stock tank, but has the EFI baffle inside, along with the provision for the sender and intank pump in the first photo. It's a little hard to tell, but I left it powdercoated silver, and painted some new tank straps to match:


Close up of the fittings:

And I painted my old water pump the new engine color. I'm going to mock up the old pump painted red and the new pump in natural finish to see which way I want to go.

Just a couple pics showing how different they are (new one on left):


Last edited by 67rally; Dec 12, 2013 at 11:17 AM.
Before:

After (still need to pull the tape and tinfoil off)














