Fireball Outlaw Drag Radial Rebuild Thread
#265
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That hood looks farmiliar... too bad mine's never gonna even get mounted at the rate I'm going
I do like the accusump setup, where are you plumbing that in? It's one of those things I've thought/considered adding to the list, but wasn't sure where it gets plumbed into the block on these cars.
I do like the accusump setup, where are you plumbing that in? It's one of those things I've thought/considered adding to the list, but wasn't sure where it gets plumbed into the block on these cars.
#266
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That hood looks farmiliar... too bad mine's never gonna even get mounted at the rate I'm going
I do like the accusump setup, where are you plumbing that in? It's one of those things I've thought/considered adding to the list, but wasn't sure where it gets plumbed into the block on these cars.
I do like the accusump setup, where are you plumbing that in? It's one of those things I've thought/considered adding to the list, but wasn't sure where it gets plumbed into the block on these cars.
#267
Race your car!
iTrader: (50)
Aah, so you have it in the return line after the filter (or before).
Makes sense, I'll have to look into that, was planning on putting a moroso pan on the car.
remind me how that works, you start the car the first time with it open, it gets filled with pressurized oil, then you close the valve, and next time you start the car you open the valve first right, then close after the car's running, etc.?
Reason I ask is alot of people put those inside the cabin so the driver can get to it.
Makes sense, I'll have to look into that, was planning on putting a moroso pan on the car.
remind me how that works, you start the car the first time with it open, it gets filled with pressurized oil, then you close the valve, and next time you start the car you open the valve first right, then close after the car's running, etc.?
Reason I ask is alot of people put those inside the cabin so the driver can get to it.
#268
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oil lines are technically not allowed inside the cabin. they make electric solenoids that can be opened/closed with a switch from inside the car too...
prepressurize with oil (first time its installed) by filling with oil and using air pressure to preload it. before starting car open valve and it prelubes the motor. before shutting off car close valve (oil pressure will hold it full). leave it open during the run...if the motor is starved for oil for whatever reason it'll put the reserve oil thru the motor.
prepressurize with oil (first time its installed) by filling with oil and using air pressure to preload it. before starting car open valve and it prelubes the motor. before shutting off car close valve (oil pressure will hold it full). leave it open during the run...if the motor is starved for oil for whatever reason it'll put the reserve oil thru the motor.
#270
Race your car!
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Makes sense. Not sure where I've seen one inside.. but that might have been on an older car before that became a rule (no oil inside the cabin)
Sounds like it's simple enough to set up, probably worth looking into too (being that a race car suffers from more damage at startup then most cars, due to them being started and shut off alot more during their lives)
Sounds like it's simple enough to set up, probably worth looking into too (being that a race car suffers from more damage at startup then most cars, due to them being started and shut off alot more during their lives)
#274
10 Second Club
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Love the new Hood Brian. It seems like things have slowed down a little as far as progress on the car. I realize it is a HUGE project and requires lots of $$ but they way things were rolling in the fall it seemed like you wanted to be back out this year yet. Hope things come back together quickly and that bad *** car is back ready to put up some big numbers.
I know how it is though I was hoping to have my car back together by mid February and now it is looking like mid March. You still willing to come out and sign for my licensing passes? I know I will need it this year
I know how it is though I was hoping to have my car back together by mid February and now it is looking like mid March. You still willing to come out and sign for my licensing passes? I know I will need it this year
#275
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Just haven't been 100% motivated to go out in the garage to work on it haha.
I have no ambitions to finish the car until next year anyhow. When the weather starts warming up I'll probably spend more time on it
I have no ambitions to finish the car until next year anyhow. When the weather starts warming up I'll probably spend more time on it
Love the new Hood Brian. It seems like things have slowed down a little as far as progress on the car. I realize it is a HUGE project and requires lots of $$ but they way things were rolling in the fall it seemed like you wanted to be back out this year yet. Hope things come back together quickly and that bad *** car is back ready to put up some big numbers.
I know how it is though I was hoping to have my car back together by mid February and now it is looking like mid March. You still willing to come out and sign for my licensing passes? I know I will need it this year
I know how it is though I was hoping to have my car back together by mid February and now it is looking like mid March. You still willing to come out and sign for my licensing passes? I know I will need it this year
#277
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Since I've been snowed in due to the blizzard of 2010...I decided to start working on making the front end removable as one piece. Started with a VFN removable front end kit.
here it is mocked up on the ground:
Note the clecos...they are holding the front attachment plates. Here is a picture from the back side. The bar that goes across the bumper is what holds the front in place...locking it in place both up/down and side to side. The small bar in the back is just for mockup...keeps the back of the fenders at the proper distance.
These are the plates that the front bar interlock with
Now its time to cut a sh%t ton of metal out of the front
here it is mocked up on the ground:
Note the clecos...they are holding the front attachment plates. Here is a picture from the back side. The bar that goes across the bumper is what holds the front in place...locking it in place both up/down and side to side. The small bar in the back is just for mockup...keeps the back of the fenders at the proper distance.
These are the plates that the front bar interlock with
Now its time to cut a sh%t ton of metal out of the front
#279
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hood will be removable, but pin on (dzus). The assembly (as I envision it) will be removable after undoing 6 dzus fasteners in the back (3 on each side)
#280
7 Second Club
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Since I've been snowed in due to the blizzard of 2010...I decided to start working on making the front end removable as one piece. Started with a VFN removable front end kit.
here it is mocked up on the ground:
Note the clecos...they are holding the front attachment plates. Here is a picture from the back side. The bar that goes across the bumper is what holds the front in place...locking it in place both up/down and side to side. The small bar in the back is just for mockup...keeps the back of the fenders at the proper distance.
These are the plates that the front bar interlock with
Now its time to cut a sh%t ton of metal out of the front
here it is mocked up on the ground:
Note the clecos...they are holding the front attachment plates. Here is a picture from the back side. The bar that goes across the bumper is what holds the front in place...locking it in place both up/down and side to side. The small bar in the back is just for mockup...keeps the back of the fenders at the proper distance.
These are the plates that the front bar interlock with
Now its time to cut a sh%t ton of metal out of the front