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370, Garrett GT55-94, truck manifolds build thread. ***UPDATE 12-10***

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Old 09-27-2011, 06:52 AM
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Did I read your rev limiter is set at 6000?
Old 09-27-2011, 09:00 AM
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Nice looking set-up!
Old 09-27-2011, 09:03 AM
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Turn that thing up and let it eat! I want to see what it makes on 23-25lbs and 20*
Old 09-27-2011, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by ericwilloughby
What's with all the calculator crap. You can monitor converter slip directly by rpm with hpt. My current FTI 2800 slips about 500 rpm up top and my old FTI 3200 slipped almost 1000.
My car is a manual valve body, has no tcu, let alone my car came from the factory as a 6 speed car.

I don't even want to know all the hassle I'd have to go through just to log that one parameter. Calculator in my case is much easier, and I also think that black ws6 having a powerglide, I don't think he can log slip either so a calculator is the only thing we can use.
Old 09-27-2011, 12:47 PM
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The best way to find slippage is by logging driveshaft speed and comparing it to RPM.

Logging slippage with the factory stuff only works with computer controlled transmissions, not sure how accurate it really is, never really messed with it. I would imagine there is a way to setup a calc PID for DS speed using EFIlive/HPT and logging it. It you can get it mounted etc..

The calculator works pretty well for looking at what your slippage is at the end of a pass, using DS speed works great because you can compare DS speed and RPM throughout an entire run.. DS speed is also VERY helpful in setting up power management/boost control.

This is a really cool build, I would be interested in seeing what your IAT numbers are at the topend of a pass, as well as what your plugs look like. I'm kicking around the idea of building a setup with no intercooler myself.
Old 09-27-2011, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris81
The best way to find slippage is by logging driveshaft speed and comparing it to RPM.

Logging slippage with the factory stuff only works with computer controlled transmissions, not sure how accurate it really is, never really messed with it. I would imagine there is a way to setup a calc PID for DS speed using EFIlive/HPT and logging it. It you can get it mounted etc..

The calculator works pretty well for looking at what your slippage is at the end of a pass, using DS speed works great because you can compare DS speed and RPM throughout an entire run.. DS speed is also VERY helpful in setting up power management/boost control.

This is a really cool build, I would be interested in seeing what your IAT numbers are at the topend of a pass, as well as what your plugs look like. I'm kicking around the idea of building a setup with no intercooler myself.
I will keep a closer eye on it this sunday, but its really cold out kniow so its probably still gonna read steady, i want to see what its like on a 100* day. Never the less i will post up those #'s for ya man.

Originally Posted by koolrayz
Did I read your rev limiter is set at 6000?
Thats right. I had fuel pressure drop at 5700 @14psi so we are playing it safe. Next year i have a whole new fuel system in mind and will be turning aronud 72-7300, but for this season im not taking it past 6K.
Old 09-29-2011, 11:19 PM
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Question guys. Can blowing threw a converter such as mine hurt the converter? Feels like its slipping/spinning more than it used to. Or possibly im just getting used to the feel.
Old 09-29-2011, 11:21 PM
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I don't think it can, but I'm not sure. Unless it bent the blades in the converter some how I don't think stall speed can change.
Old 09-29-2011, 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Fbodyjunkie06
I don't think it can, but I'm not sure. Unless it bent the blades in the converter some how I don't think stall speed can change.
I had a buddy the other day joke about bending over the blades in the converter, and it got me thinking that the last few 10+ psi runs have felt like the car is slipping more and more, but it could also be all in my head.

Im FINALLY going to get a chance to run 1/4 mile this sunday so i will take some good videos with the go pro, and camera to see if you can hear anything to give me better feedback. Will most likely try to keep the boost as low as possible and make it to the end of the 1/4 without bouncing off my ***** 6K limiter.
Old 09-29-2011, 11:48 PM
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How do u know it's the converter instead of the clutches? I thought I was slipping my 3-4 pack at 800 ft/lbs because it would shudder 3-4 times. Turned out to be ballooning the converter. I figured that out when it exploded inside
Old 09-29-2011, 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by ericwilloughby
How do u know it's the converter instead of the clutches? I thought I was slipping my 3-4 pack at 800 ft/lbs because it would shudder 3-4 times. Turned out to be ballooning the converter. I figured that out when it exploded inside
Damn that sounds like that sucked! Sorry to hear that ****, I bet that was expensive.

BlackWS6 I don't think you'll be able to run all the way out with the rev limit at 6k do you?
Old 09-30-2011, 12:08 AM
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Yep, clogged the cooler and that took out the rear planet. Metal in the pump....$800 converter with a week lockup that slips at the slightest load. $200 planet, pump? Labor?

Here it is. http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showpos...postcount=1707
Old 09-30-2011, 04:44 AM
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If you ballon the converter you better check your thrust bearing on your mains. Doesn't take much to wipe out your thrust bearing.
Old 09-30-2011, 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by BlackWS666
Converter cam with the powerglide and i was expecting this. Both are from Trans King, and i bought them used.

never heard of them. converters for turbo cars can be weird. 500rpm drop on the shift is WAY too loose. I'd seriously think about looking at well known turbo converter manufacturers.

why are you shifting at 6K? glides can be funny...especially with the drastic 1-2 ratio difference. For example, if I short shift I might see only a few hundred drop. If I shift at where I'm supposed to I see 1000 rpm drop.
Old 09-30-2011, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Fireball
never heard of them. converters for turbo cars can be weird. 500rpm drop on the shift is WAY too loose. I'd seriously think about looking at well known turbo converter manufacturers.

why are you shifting at 6K? glides can be funny...especially with the drastic 1-2 ratio difference. For example, if I short shift I might see only a few hundred drop. If I shift at where I'm supposed to I see 1000 rpm drop.
Trans King makes good stuff, its sold by madman i believe. But yea im going to a converter from Lenny @ ultimate converter concepts this winter. All of my numbers are you guesses, i have no loging capabilitys right now. I will be running low boost (8 psi) and i will shift at a few different RPMs to see if it makes any real difference.
Old 10-03-2011, 12:35 PM
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waiting for some track results and maybe a few stories!!!
Old 10-04-2011, 03:43 PM
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me too!
Old 10-05-2011, 11:03 PM
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rAYpcBDcgyk

Car did good at the track. Went a best of 9.81 @ 138.8 with a 1.50 60ft. 1/8th mile was 6.30 @ 115

Car was bouncing off the limiter at about the 1000ft mark, and then i pedaled it to the end. Raced it at 12 psi all night. I NEED MORE RPM, FUEL AND BOOST!!!!!!

I did 4 passes and dead hooked everytime. first was 3000 RPM with 2 psi, then did a 3500 with 4 psi, then 4000 with 5psi, and lastly a 4500 at 7psi. The 4500 was the 1.50 60ft. Should i keep uping the RPM and boost at launch and see what happens, or more boost for the RPM?

Also i switched out my BOV spring to the tightest for the JGS 60mm, know i cant boost any lower than 12 psi even with a 7psi wastegate spring. Someone please explain this to me!
Old 10-05-2011, 11:25 PM
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i dont know why they even bother listing psi with the wastegate springs. they need to list them as this spring is harder than this spring and so on and so forth.

however, if you are trying to drop the boost, and put in the weakest spring, and thats the lowest boost you can make.. well then your wastegate location needs work.
Old 10-05-2011, 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackWS666
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rAYpcBDcgyk

Car did good at the track. Went a best of 9.81 @ 138.8 with a 1.50 60ft. 1/8th mile was 6.30 @ 115

Car was bouncing off the limiter at about the 1000ft mark, and then i pedaled it to the end. Raced it at 12 psi all night. I NEED MORE RPM, FUEL AND BOOST!!!!!!

I did 4 passes and dead hooked everytime. first was 3000 RPM with 2 psi, then did a 3500 with 4 psi, then 4000 with 5psi, and lastly a 4500 at 7psi. The 4500 was the 1.50 60ft. Should i keep uping the RPM and boost at launch and see what happens, or more boost for the RPM?

Also i switched out my BOV spring to the tightest for the JGS 60mm, know i cant boost any lower than 12 psi even with a 7psi wastegate spring. Someone please explain this to me!
Yes you should keep increasing the launch rpm so the motor is making enough power/torque to 60' faster.

The bov spring only affects how the bov opens and closes. You should have the bov referenced at the intake and it should stay closed under boost.

As far as the waste gate goes you should try and put regulated pressure to it and see what kind of pressure it takes to move the valve. If it operates at 10-14 psi (reference + backpressure) then the only reason it would make more boost then that at the intake is it is too small to dump enough exhaust gasses and/or it is poorly placed.


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