WS6 S475 official build thread.......
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From: Statesville, NC
I think you could run 20psi if you wanted to as long as the fueling was there to do it. Keep timing around 11-12* and AFR around 10.8-11.0 and it should run fine.
Shift it at 6500rpm and it will be good to go and will come into it's own with that turbo. It would absolutely rape a 1000cc bike on the highway.
Shift it at 6500rpm and it will be good to go and will come into it's own with that turbo. It would absolutely rape a 1000cc bike on the highway.
Thread Starter
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From: Statesville, NC
I think you could run 20psi if you wanted to as long as the fueling was there to do it. Keep timing around 11-12* and AFR around 10.8-11.0 and it should run fine.
Shift it at 6500rpm and it will be good to go and will come into it's own with that turbo. It would absolutely rape a 1000cc bike on the highway.
Shift it at 6500rpm and it will be good to go and will come into it's own with that turbo. It would absolutely rape a 1000cc bike on the highway.
And 1000cc bikes? Come on now lol. My confidence is low lol.
Last edited by mrstepheneades; Aug 3, 2013 at 02:44 PM.
Your car trapped 103mph. That's over 600rwhp on a dyno jet for a full weight 6 speed car. Most 600cc bikes trap 99-105mph depending on the driver. I'd say right now you can take a 600cc bike.
Take it up to 20psi and lean the AFR out to 11.0 and you'd be able to trap close to 110mph I bet if not more.
Take it up to 20psi and lean the AFR out to 11.0 and you'd be able to trap close to 110mph I bet if not more.
Thread Starter
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From: Statesville, NC
Your car trapped 103mph. That's over 600rwhp on a dyno jet for a full weight 6 speed car. Most 600cc bikes trap 99-105mph depending on the driver. I'd say right now you can take a 600cc bike.
Take it up to 20psi and lean the AFR out to 11.0 and you'd be able to trap close to 110mph I bet if not more.
Take it up to 20psi and lean the AFR out to 11.0 and you'd be able to trap close to 110mph I bet if not more.
Anyone know the quarter mile mph record on a stock ls1 setup like mine? Like cam only and factory intake and gaskets? What did you run in the quarter Martin with your old car?
Last edited by mrstepheneades; Aug 4, 2013 at 10:25 PM.
Thread Starter
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Im curious as to how many awesome 6speed fbodys are out there on the track with good times? I mean supras get in low 8s with a 6speed why cant we lol? Anybody that knows of some killer 6speed fbody post some video links. As for now this is the fastest one ive found.
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Yeah I realize that video I posted was a nitrous car but still id like to know or watch videos of some fast 6speed t56 based fbodys. Underground done a viper with t56 that went 7s @ like 180ish. I know you cant compare dollars with them but you know what im saying.
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Verdad Gallardo Yeah I realize that video I posted was a nitrous car but still id like to know or watch videos of some fast 6speed t56 based fbodys. Underground done a viper with t56 that went 7s @ like 180ish. I know you cant compare dollars with them but you know what im saying.
From last year when I when I had the W2W built T56 in my car.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
Video of the car at the track fast forward to 7:28 to see it in action, this is not the above posted slips pass, think this was in the 6.60 range, didnt 60 ft too well (1.70s) as the dew was coming down on the track.
[IMG]
[/IMG]Video of the car at the track fast forward to 7:28 to see it in action, this is not the above posted slips pass, think this was in the 6.60 range, didnt 60 ft too well (1.70s) as the dew was coming down on the track.
It takes a lot of seat time to get a T56 to go, my 60ft ranged 1.40s to high 1.70s pass to pass. A good slipper clutch like the spec stage 5 and a 2 step would make a world of difference. Add a shift light and some practice and it can be pretty consistent.
Remember something has got to give. With auto's its the converter. With a stick its the tires or the clutch pick one. Use a slipper clutch it gives, then you can run whatever tire radial or slick and dead hook it because the clutch gives away.
If your in love with your clutch run a 26 or 28" stiff wall 10.5 and the tires will give. This is okay because they are designed to spin and catch, just dump it at like 5K and it will go. You cant get away with this with radials designed for the street. Bias ply's will some of the time but there not consistant. So grab a couple of 15" rims off of craigslist and a jack throw them on at the track.
Minimum suspension
Get the comp 3 ways set the rear to 50/50. Get 2 way adj fronts and set compression at the high value so weight stays back and loosen up the expansion until the weight shifts and it goes. If you get the expansion to loose it will wheelie dial it back some. 325# Hypercoils will work great for springs on the front.
Me and my car were pretty much where you are now a couple of years ago. I gained a lot of good info talking to the faster guys at the local tracks and saw it first hand. Nothing like seat time and seeing the gains. With that MPH your car easily has 6.80s in it without even turning it up. I would focus and getting to go now instead of more power because its not going to get any faster until you can hook it up.
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From: Statesville, NC
3.40 in a S60 tires were 325/50 r15 ET Streets so 28" there a little taller than the 275/40s on your car now. Car would cross between 6100-6300.
It takes a lot of seat time to get a T56 to go, my 60ft ranged 1.40s to high 1.70s pass to pass. A good slipper clutch like the spec stage 5 and a 2 step would make a world of difference. Add a shift light and some practice and it can be pretty consistent.
Remember something has got to give. With auto's its the converter. With a stick its the tires or the clutch pick one. Use a slipper clutch it gives, then you can run whatever tire radial or slick and dead hook it because the clutch gives away.
If your in love with your clutch run a 26 or 28" stiff wall 10.5 and the tires will give. This is okay because they are designed to spin and catch, just dump it at like 5K and it will go. You cant get away with this with radials designed for the street. Bias ply's will some of the time but there not consistant. So grab a couple of 15" rims off of craigslist and a jack throw them on at the track.
Minimum suspension
Get the comp 3 ways set the rear to 50/50. Get 2 way adj fronts and set compression at the high value so weight stays back and loosen up the expansion until the weight shifts and it goes. If you get the expansion to loose it will wheelie dial it back some. 325# Hypercoils will work great for springs on the front.
Me and my car were pretty much where you are now a couple of years ago. I gained a lot of good info talking to the faster guys at the local tracks and saw it first hand. Nothing like seat time and seeing the gains. With that MPH your car easily has 6.80s in it without even turning it up. I would focus and getting to go now instead of more power because its not going to get any faster until you can hook it up.
It takes a lot of seat time to get a T56 to go, my 60ft ranged 1.40s to high 1.70s pass to pass. A good slipper clutch like the spec stage 5 and a 2 step would make a world of difference. Add a shift light and some practice and it can be pretty consistent.
Remember something has got to give. With auto's its the converter. With a stick its the tires or the clutch pick one. Use a slipper clutch it gives, then you can run whatever tire radial or slick and dead hook it because the clutch gives away.
If your in love with your clutch run a 26 or 28" stiff wall 10.5 and the tires will give. This is okay because they are designed to spin and catch, just dump it at like 5K and it will go. You cant get away with this with radials designed for the street. Bias ply's will some of the time but there not consistant. So grab a couple of 15" rims off of craigslist and a jack throw them on at the track.
Minimum suspension
Get the comp 3 ways set the rear to 50/50. Get 2 way adj fronts and set compression at the high value so weight stays back and loosen up the expansion until the weight shifts and it goes. If you get the expansion to loose it will wheelie dial it back some. 325# Hypercoils will work great for springs on the front.
Me and my car were pretty much where you are now a couple of years ago. I gained a lot of good info talking to the faster guys at the local tracks and saw it first hand. Nothing like seat time and seeing the gains. With that MPH your car easily has 6.80s in it without even turning it up. I would focus and getting to go now instead of more power because its not going to get any faster until you can hook it up.
I'll give you the same word of caution I got at the track. If the car gets out of shape within the first 10 ft or so of the launch, you probably should get out if it because once a stiff wall really plants the car is going to go wherever the front is pointed, and if your foot is on the loud pedal no amount of bada$$ driving will stop it. I am sure you have seen videos of drag cars shooting across the median or nailing the wall early on I would bet 80 percent were on stiff walls. This is the reason a lot of 28" 10.5 races have outlawed there use because people get crazy going for that money and ended up hurting themselves there cars and taking out other competitors cars, low budget grudge racers love them because they are so much more forgiving.
Thread Starter
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From: Statesville, NC
These? lol
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hoo-17510/overview/
or would 10.5s be better for more slip?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hoo-17510/overview/
or would 10.5s be better for more slip?
These? lol
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hoo-17510/overview/
or would 10.5s be better for more slip?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hoo-17510/overview/
or would 10.5s be better for more slip?
This is the exact tire I ran, when I was running slicks.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hoo-18155
Thread Starter
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From: Statesville, NC
I would run the 10.5s as the slick will grow. 28x10.5's are pushing it on the stock wheel well. Good chance the 11.5s will rub the lower forward portion of the well by the lower control arm.
This is the exact tire I ran, when I was running slicks.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hoo-18155
This is the exact tire I ran, when I was running slicks.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hoo-18155
Thread Starter
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So your stock rear lasted a year of track running on stiff wall slicks? That's a miracle lol. It was an untouched rear with the 3.42s? My luck wont be that good.
Time line went like this. Stock up to 50K miles,
heads/cam/exhuast 430 RWHP from 50K to 77K motor blew up.
Went FI with STS kit 77K to 98K with the stock rear staying together.
(Wish I would have listened to David MIGHTYMOUSE when he told me it was a bad idea LOL, This was the same day MM2 got into the wall. Nothing but problems with that kit, required weekly maintenance to keep it going. Oil problems, turbo dragging, catback twisting and breaking, boost leaks, just no good. David was right, and I wasted 5 years trying to get my car to go fast with it. LOL)
98K swapped to S60/ S480 front mount setup. Stock rear was a trooper for me.