Workbench question
#1
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Henderson, NC
Posts: 854
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
After looking alot online I am thinking I might just end up getting the connectors from Lowes and makes my own out of 2x4 etc.
Just wondering what size workbenches you guys use for say transmission rebuilds and such. Space is a little limited in the garage, especially depth wise. Im thinking I may have room for 20" at the most but hoping to hear 16" will work just fine![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Length wise I have room for up to 72" bench. Was thinking of doing a 4 shelf, one foot spacing between each shelf, bench. Using 2x16x72 or 2x16x60 and then using 4x4 or such for the legs. Shrugs I havent really sat down and designed one yet, as I am hoping someone knows of a good place to geta reasonably priced one![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Thanks for the help
Just wondering what size workbenches you guys use for say transmission rebuilds and such. Space is a little limited in the garage, especially depth wise. Im thinking I may have room for 20" at the most but hoping to hear 16" will work just fine
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Length wise I have room for up to 72" bench. Was thinking of doing a 4 shelf, one foot spacing between each shelf, bench. Using 2x16x72 or 2x16x60 and then using 4x4 or such for the legs. Shrugs I havent really sat down and designed one yet, as I am hoping someone knows of a good place to geta reasonably priced one
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Thanks for the help
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
#2
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Mine is 32" Deep, **72" long**edit, stainless cap. I love it. Got a nice big vise on it. I'd like to say I can pretty much work on anything on it without a ounce of trouble.
Last edited by Specialized; 09-19-2007 at 07:30 PM.
#4
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Waco, TX
Posts: 6,449
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
16" would be too shallow to do much on, IMO. I'd say 24" deep minimum.
My other $.02, make it as heavy as possible. 2x4's would still be pretty light, unless you stick a heavy top on it. I like heavy workbenches, they don't move around or rattle on you when you "work" on them.![The Judge](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_judge.gif)
My work table came from a used surplus furniture place, was a work table at the old Levi's factory in Amarillo.
My other $.02, make it as heavy as possible. 2x4's would still be pretty light, unless you stick a heavy top on it. I like heavy workbenches, they don't move around or rattle on you when you "work" on them.
![The Judge](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_judge.gif)
My work table came from a used surplus furniture place, was a work table at the old Levi's factory in Amarillo.
#5
Launching!
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: College Station, TX
Posts: 264
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I would suggest a surface other than wood. I have a sheet of tin or galvanized steel over my plywood so that wood dust and stuff don't stick to parts. No matter what you think, you can't get plywood clean. You could shoot a thick layer of some kind of glazing agent over it. That'd work too.
#6
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Just a few observations based on experience.
Make it as big as you can. You'll always need more room than you have.
The surface should be as hard as possible. Steel plate is good. Plywood is not. Professional transmission builders use steel tables with drain channels and catch basins since there is so much fluid trapped inside a unit that runs out, even after the pan is drained.
Don't squeeze your shelves too close together. If you space the shelves at 12", you'll find that just about anything you want to store will be 13" high.
Best advice: Look for a used unit from a shop going out of business. You'll be much happier in the long run.
Make it as big as you can. You'll always need more room than you have.
The surface should be as hard as possible. Steel plate is good. Plywood is not. Professional transmission builders use steel tables with drain channels and catch basins since there is so much fluid trapped inside a unit that runs out, even after the pan is drained.
Don't squeeze your shelves too close together. If you space the shelves at 12", you'll find that just about anything you want to store will be 13" high.
Best advice: Look for a used unit from a shop going out of business. You'll be much happier in the long run.
Trending Topics
#8
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Sanford, FL
Posts: 506
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
you have to sit down and really think what your using it for my dad Builds cabinets and his main table is about 5x8 and the thing is crazy solid. its very nice to have a big heavy duty table but make sure your able to move it to if your ever going to want to. I know for my dads we actually have to jack up and put dollies under it to move it. so you may want to think about some heavy duty casters or wheels if you want to move it. I would say for what you want though make it as close to 24" as you can.
#9
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'll post some pics tonight of mine that I have at the house. It is 96" long, and 24" wide. The top is 3/4" plywood with 14awg steel on top. I had a metal shop put a bend on the front edge, and the sides. I also have a backsplash with a trough in the back. I made the top where it has a tilt to the rear so fluids will drain into the trough, and it is also concaved in the middle so fluids will be directed toward the middle and then run into the back. I have about $200 invested in the metal, and probably $50 or so in the wood and materials. It is attached to the wall, and built with 2x4s and is very sturdy! I would say that 24" would be the minimum width that you would want a bench. The front edge is also about 40" from the floor if I remember right. I'll measure tonight.
#10
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
We have two benches, both wood. The little bench is one of the 2x4 type made with one of the kits from home depot. 6 foot long. The other is one we got from an old toy maker. It is 10 foot long, has two heights for misc parts, and is awesome. It is based on 2x12 boards, weighs a billion pounds. Go as long as you can, and oil the surface real good before you use it. If you have enough length, you can add some steel plate to a 4 foot section to give you the best of both worlds...
#11
Moderator
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: East Central Florida
Posts: 12,604
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
6 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech20year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Kits are for wussies.
My main workbench is 16' long and 30" deep. I made it out of 500+
running feet worth of PT wood fence that I tore down when I moved
in here. Cut the pointy end off the pickets and butcher-blocked
them, glue and nail on top of 2x4" rails (back, center and face) with
4"x4" legs (ends and center). The legs were fence posts and the
rails were fence stringers. It's massive and can take some hard
bonkin'. I left one section open and set a radial arm saw down in it.
Got drill press, bench grinders, lathe, joiner and a bunch of junk
sitting on it. A big bench means you don't have to straighten up
as often
Plus you can really grief on whatever's in the vise.
I had fence wood left over so I made a littler one for the welding
stuff. Covered that one with fire brick from when I busted out the
fireplaces.
My main workbench is 16' long and 30" deep. I made it out of 500+
running feet worth of PT wood fence that I tore down when I moved
in here. Cut the pointy end off the pickets and butcher-blocked
them, glue and nail on top of 2x4" rails (back, center and face) with
4"x4" legs (ends and center). The legs were fence posts and the
rails were fence stringers. It's massive and can take some hard
bonkin'. I left one section open and set a radial arm saw down in it.
Got drill press, bench grinders, lathe, joiner and a bunch of junk
sitting on it. A big bench means you don't have to straighten up
as often
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
I had fence wood left over so I made a littler one for the welding
stuff. Covered that one with fire brick from when I busted out the
fireplaces.