Originally Posted by Wilwood

Why are some rotors drilled or slotted?
Rotors are drilled to reduce rotating weight, an issue near and dear to racers searching for ways to minimize unsprung weight. Drilling diminishes a rotor's durability and cooling capacity.
Slots or grooves in rotor faces are partly a carryover from the days of asbestos pads. Asbestos and other organic pads were prone to "glazing" and the slots tended to help "scrape or de-glaze" them. Drilling and slotting rotors has become popular in street applications for their pure aesthetic value. Wilwood has a large selection of drilled and slotted rotors for a wide range of applications.

Originally Posted by Baer

What are the benefits to cross-drilling, slotting, and zinc-washing my rotors?
In years past, cross-drilling and/or slotting the rotor for racing purposes was beneficial by providing a way to expel the gasses created when the bonding agents employed to manufacture the pads began to break down at extreme temperatures. This condition is often referred to as "green pad fade" or "outgassing". When it does occur, the driver still has a good firm brake pedal, but simply little or no friction. Since this normally happens only at temperatures witnessed in racing, this can be very exciting! However, with today´s race pad technology, “outgassing” is no longer much of a concern. When shopping for races pads, or even ultra high performance road pads, look for the phrases, "dynamic surface treatment", "race ready", and/or, "pre-burnished". When these or similar statements are made by the pad manufacturer, the pad in question will likely have little or no problem with “outgassing”. Ironically more pedestrian pads used on most streetcars will still exhibit “outgassing”, but only when used at temperatures normally only encountered on the racetrack. Although cross-drilling and/or slotting will provide a welcome path to expend any gasses when and if they develop, it is primarily a visual enhancement behind today’s often wide-open wheel designs. Cross-drilling offers the greatest gas relief pathway, but creates potential "stress risers" from which cracks can occur. Baer´s rotors are cast with cross-drilling in mind, from the material specified, to curved vanes, behind which the holes are placed to minimize potential crack migration. Slotted surfaces are what Baer recommends for track only use. Slotted only rotors are offered as an option for any of Baer’s offerings.

Originally Posted by VIP1

Diagnosing a bad tie-rod or ball joint
(knocking noises in front suspension)

Get that wheel up in the air.

Grab the wheel at the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock position.
Rock it left/right.
Is there any play/noise?
If so, then the outer tie rod needs to be replaced.

Grab the wheel at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock position.
Rock it up/down.
Is there any play/noise?
If so, then the upper and/or lower ball joint(s) need to be replaced.
When you get the spindle off you can inspect the ball joints to see which one has the excess play.
(or take it to Sears and have them replace both with Moog parts)

Rotate the wheel.
Any noise?
If so, take the wheel off and rotate the hub.
Any noise?
Look for anything that can contact the rotor or wheel.
if nothing, take off the caliper and rotor and rotate the hub.
Any noise?
If so then the wheel bearing needs to be replaced.

If there is no noise in any of that, then the nut on the top of the shock might be loose and the shock is moving up/down/left/right in the mount making noise. I left this for last because its the most work to check. You'll have to drop the shock/spring assembly from the tower to inspect the nut. Also make sure nothing is missing like a rubber isolator or washer.