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Old 06-18-2013, 10:13 PM
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oh ya and im not just about dyno numbers, those are just a reference to how strong my motor is in my eyes. my real goal is low 11s and possibly dip into the tens
Old 06-19-2013, 11:09 AM
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Alittle off ls1 topic but found out my gmc sonoma needs new motor mounts has anyone tackled this kind of job before? Got quote from shop of $750.
Old 06-19-2013, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by ZiggyVanFloggin
Alittle off ls1 topic but found out my gmc sonoma needs new motor mounts has anyone tackled this kind of job before? Got quote from shop of $750.
That seems WAY too high. Using a 2004 Sonoma as an example, labor time is only 2.6 hours. PM me your details, and I'll get you an accurate quote. Not sure if im a reasonable driving distance from you though. (Keizer)
Old 06-19-2013, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by salemetro
That seems WAY too high. Using a 2004 Sonoma as an example, labor time is only 2.6 hours. PM me your details, and I'll get you an accurate quote. Not sure if im a reasonable driving distance from you though. (Keizer)
Ditto. That is way too high. You could get a cherry puller and just do it yourself. James won't do ya wrong though. When my money's ever right he's gonna put in my headers and springs. Stall too.
Old 06-19-2013, 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 02sslayer
Hey guys I am wondering of any of u fine gentlemen would be interested in helping me switch out my headers? Exhaust is all disconnected. I'll buy a nice lunch for us and some beer if u like. I'd like someone that has done this a few times. I have done it once and remember its a botch. Anyway let me know I'd greatly appreciate it
Brandon or Tim are your best options. But those guys are really busy. And I can't speak for them.
Old 06-19-2013, 10:48 PM
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Hit up James. Aka Salemetro. He's got a legit shop and is very very fair on his prices. I'm planning in having him do mine as well as the springs and stall.
Old 06-23-2013, 05:08 PM
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Hey thank you all for your help and advice. with luck my two vehicles will be dependable before long, and i'll be racing again
Old 07-02-2013, 10:45 PM
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just paid off tony for the rest of my parts and ordered a monster level 3 w/ tick mc, slave, speed bleeder , 28 lb FW. also picked up a elec water pump. i dont see my car making to great of a number or anything, i was dissapointed last time and you guys are right the number dont really mean anything. im much happier with the parts i chose tho this time just cuz car will run weaaaay better at every RPM. not that i will be making any real passes anytime soon. im not even gonna try to go down the track with drag radials now, ten bolt would be toast first run im guessing lol.

@T, im looking forward to seeing how your ss does hp wise as well as omn the track

does anyone know how to get a hold of jsafe? i had his number a while back but lost it. been wanting to see if he still has a certain part

Last edited by 02sslayer; 07-02-2013 at 10:53 PM.
Old 07-03-2013, 04:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Mikey 97Z M6
Its actually a pretty straight forward swap. Not any harder than converting an Fbody from auto to manual. The 99-06 4.8l trucks had a manual trans option, so the pedals and master cylinder are available. The trucks with T56 conversions sell fast.... I wouldnt sell it anyway, I love the Tahoe.

Mike
Is your Tahoe 2 wheel drive?
Old 07-03-2013, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by iregret
Is your Tahoe 2 wheel drive?
Not at the moment, but it will be converted to 2wd if I do the T56 swap. Looks like it just might happen. Im gathering parts for the swap now.

Are you considering a T56 swap in your rcsb? Where at in Oregon are ya?

Mike
Old 07-03-2013, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Mikey 97Z M6
Not at the moment, but it will be converted to 2wd if I do the T56 swap. Looks like it just might happen. Im gathering parts for the swap now.

Are you considering a T56 swap in your rcsb? Where at in Oregon are ya?

Mike
If you sell me that T56 cheap enough, I'll consider it. LOL.

I've spent too much time and money converting to AWD to give it up. It is possible to keep your 4WD, it's just not as easy or as cheap.

It should be pretty straight forward to remove 4WD. You could probably just remove the front drive line and the CV's. To keep 4WD, you'd either have to fabricate some stuff, or change the T56 housing to a later version so it would bolt up to your transfercase. (08+ I think) If I remember correctly, you would also have to cut a few inches off of the output shaft.

A T56, AWD LQ4 turbo truck sounds like fun to me. LOL. Oh, I'm from the Salem area.
Old 07-03-2013, 07:56 PM
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Like you mentioned removing 4wd is pretty easy, just need 2wd front wheel hubs, remove front cv's, diff, transmission and transfer case, install 2wd trans, new length driveshaft etc. Pretty straightward swap.

That being said, swapping in a T56 AND keeping 4wd is a huge challenge but this guy on PT has done it sucessfullly.
http://www.performancetrucks.net/for...-build-482293/

Way too much time/money/effort for my needs though. I want to lower my rig more than it is already so having 4wd is more of a nuisance to me. Ive owned this rig since 07 and have only used 4wd one time.

If you find a T56 core that needs rebuilt, I could go through it for ya.

So you had a 2wd and converted it to 4wd?

Mike


Originally Posted by iregret
If you sell me that T56 cheap enough, I'll consider it. LOL.

I've spent too much time and money converting to AWD to give it up. It is possible to keep your 4WD, it's just not as easy or as cheap.

It should be pretty straight forward to remove 4WD. You could probably just remove the front drive line and the CV's. To keep 4WD, you'd either have to fabricate some stuff, or change the T56 housing to a later version so it would bolt up to your transfercase. (08+ I think) If I remember correctly, you would also have to cut a few inches off of the output shaft.

A T56, AWD LQ4 turbo truck sounds like fun to me. LOL. Oh, I'm from the Salem area.
Old 07-03-2013, 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Mikey 97Z M6
Like you mentioned removing 4wd is pretty easy, just need 2wd front wheel hubs, remove front cv's, diff, transmission and transfer case, install 2wd trans, new length driveshaft etc. Pretty straightward swap.

That being said, swapping in a T56 AND keeping 4wd is a huge challenge but this guy on PT has done it sucessfullly.
http://www.performancetrucks.net/for...-build-482293/

Way too much time/money/effort for my needs though. I want to lower my rig more than it is already so having 4wd is more of a nuisance to me. Ive owned this rig since 07 and have only used 4wd one time.

If you find a T56 core that needs rebuilt, I could go through it for ya.

So you had a 2wd and converted it to 4wd?

Mike
If you wanted to do it on the real cheap, you could actually leave the front differential assembly in place and then you wouldn't have to do anything with the hubs. Just remove the factory front driveshaft, and the 4L60E. Replace it with the T56 and then get a rear driveshaft made. Of course, you'd also need a flywheel and should probably modify the tune.

On the other hand, keeping 4WD would be pretty rad.

I did not convert my truck from 2WD to 4WD/AWD. My truck came 4WD from the factory. I swapped out the 60E and swapped in an 80E with a 3000 stall torque converter. When I did that, I also swapped in a NP149 transfer case. This is the all-wheel-drive transfer case that came from the factory in Escalade's, Yukon XL's, and Silverado SS's. I had to have the input gear in the transfer case resplined. I also had to have new driveshafts made front and rear, not to mention the re-programming of the factory computer so it could control the 80E. Oh, and modify the crossmember.

Lowering the four-wheel-drive is pretty straightforward with a spindle swap and shackles in the rear. That's pretty much all I did. I think I got my truck to look 2WD even though it's AWD. No one suspects anything. LOL

I like the idea that no one would notice my truck. It should hook up like crazy. I'm not building it to break any records or anything, I just want to fun driver.

Here it is on it's test drive after it's been lowered.

Old 07-04-2013, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by iregret
If you wanted to do it on the real cheap, you could actually leave the front differential assembly in place and then you wouldn't have to do anything with the hubs. Just remove the factory front driveshaft, and the 4L60E. Replace it with the T56 and then get a rear driveshaft made. Of course, you'd also need a flywheel and should probably modify the tune.

On the other hand, keeping 4WD would be pretty rad.

I did not convert my truck from 2WD to 4WD/AWD. My truck came 4WD from the factory. I swapped out the 60E and swapped in an 80E with a 3000 stall torque converter. When I did that, I also swapped in a NP149 transfer case. This is the all-wheel-drive transfer case that came from the factory in Escalade's, Yukon XL's, and Silverado SS's. I had to have the input gear in the transfer case resplined. I also had to have new driveshafts made front and rear, not to mention the re-programming of the factory computer so it could control the 80E. Oh, and modify the crossmember.

Lowering the four-wheel-drive is pretty straightforward with a spindle swap and shackles in the rear. That's pretty much all I did. I think I got my truck to look 2WD even though it's AWD. No one suspects anything. LOL

I like the idea that no one would notice my truck. It should hook up like crazy. I'm not building it to break any records or anything, I just want to fun driver.

Here it is on it's test drive after it's been lowered.
Oh I gotchya about the AWD thing. If I convert to 2WD/T56 I'm doing everything all at once. Would be nice to lose about 400-500lbs in the process. A re-gear is almost necessary with these current tire/wheel combo I'm running. Did some calcs and I'm leaning toward a 5.13 rear gear. Should put me about 2000 rpms at 70mph and still have plenty of lowend grunt to get the pig moving.

Your truck looks pretty good. I personally like them a bit lower but that's just my preference. Got some drop keys and offset upper control arm bushings ready to go on to gain another 1" drop or so. I'd like to get the tops of the tires even with the fender well opening eventually. Here's mine in current form.



Mike
Old 07-04-2013, 03:16 PM
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Looks good!

I actually have lowering keys, so I could go lower if I wanted to. I've considered it but I don't miss driving a super low vehicle. Going sideways over things and scraping over speed bumps.

The problem is, if I go any lower, I really can't use my truck as a truck anymore. Right now it handles like stock, only better. It has sway bars, shocks and all that. Already, it sags in the rear if I'm towing something. To do it right, I'd have to notch the frame and I just don't want a flip kit and all that.

So, yeah, I agree with you. I'd like it one inch lower, but I don't want to invest the time and money necessary to do so. Plus, I'm pretty sure I'd probably have to clock the transfer case if I went to low.

Right now, it handles pretty good, for a truck.

Are your wheels 22"? I'm running 20's, so maybe that's part of the equation.

5.13?!? Wow! I didn't realize you could go that low. That seems crazy. I remember putting 5.13's in my 4Runner, but in my Camaro I went 3.73. That was with a TH350 though. It's pretty cool that with a 6th gear, you could go that low.
Old 07-04-2013, 06:11 PM
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You could do some Air-lift helper bags in the back and still haul stuff with ease. I know there are lots of guys on the Tahoeyukon forum that are lower than me with those bags and they can still tow large camper trailers, car haulers etc... they also help stabilize side to side. Just something to think about if you're on the fence about going lower. You would have to go ALOT lower before worrying about scraping on things lol. Mines a good bit lower than yours and I've never even come close to scraping or having to take driveways at an angle haha.. even at this height, the Tahoe still has 3 times the ground clearance of a typical car.

Yeah these are 22's and are about 32.2" tall, hence the desire for a steeper rear gear if I go with a T56.

Mike
Old 07-05-2013, 06:35 PM
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To go any lower, I think I'd have to do different springs in the rear. I'd like to buy the helper bags for the rear. Do you know if they're noticeable while driving unloaded?

Here's the kit I was considering.

AIR LIFT 59103 Slam Air Adjustable Air Spring Kit
http://amzn.com/B000CFO07M

I just wouldn't want it to effect the ride negatively at all.
Old 07-05-2013, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by iregret
To go any lower, I think I'd have to do different springs in the rear. I'd like to buy the helper bags for the rear. Do you know if they're noticeable while driving unloaded?

Here's the kit I was considering.

AIR LIFT 59103 Slam Air Adjustable Air Spring Kit
http://amzn.com/B000CFO07M

I just wouldn't want it to effect the ride negatively at all.
Dont know how it affects it unloaded but I would assume its stiff. They make on-board compressors too so you could control the bags in cabin.

Mike
Old 07-05-2013, 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Mikey 97Z M6
Dont know how it affects it unloaded but I would assume its stiff. They make on-board compressors too so you could control the bags in cabin.

Mike
Oh, I wouldn't need anything that fancy. It's so rare that I tow with it anyway I would just air it up as needed.

On another note, I repaired my cracked front differential today. It's good to be driving again! Now there's a problem though, for some reason the air conditioning doesn't engage. I didn't feel like messing with it anymore today.

Old 07-06-2013, 06:22 PM
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Hey, where do you guys go for tuning? I have hptuners, but wouldn't mind having a pro set me up when I go turbo.


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