Mach at the track
#1821
10 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
^^^^^^That's the problem
That's a pp issue. Fingers suck in, hyraulic release bearing can't release the clutch completely. Shifting gets notchy or you just start missing gears. It usually starts as missing 4th. Then it gets weak enough it moves back to 3rd. It can depend on gear ratio to because it's the sustained high rpm that messes it up.
He's very scorned.
Their good engines.
The spacer is a crutch. I'm not so sure it don't aggravate the problem by pushing the pp to far. We've spaced them up before and it would work for a while but once the pp gets stressed to the point the fingers loose their pressure it's done.
I broke my original clutch too. It took a good beating though.
let them start playing with new 5.0s... i think they would be lieing to themselves if they hated on it. I hated working on my buddies 03/04 cobra motors... just a giant mess of a confusion and parts/pullies.
I went from various LS/LQ stuff.... i love the ever living **** out of my roadrunner. Technology is a bitch! Its a simple motor. Not quite as simple as push rod motors... but as simple as a mod motor is going to get. Theres a reason its 300lbs lighter then the ALUMINIUM 2013 GT500 long block.
I went from various LS/LQ stuff.... i love the ever living **** out of my roadrunner. Technology is a bitch! Its a simple motor. Not quite as simple as push rod motors... but as simple as a mod motor is going to get. Theres a reason its 300lbs lighter then the ALUMINIUM 2013 GT500 long block.
That was great...ahahaha
Same issue I had... the pressure plate was fubar both times. First time it just wouldn't work above 5K.... the little metal weights snapped off...
![](https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/18487098/PP1Fail.JPG)
the second time the damn thing cracked in a couple of places and wouldn't shift above 6K. GM quality FTW!
![](https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/18487098/PPFail2.jpg)
![](https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/18487098/PPFail3.jpg)
Same issue I had... the pressure plate was fubar both times. First time it just wouldn't work above 5K.... the little metal weights snapped off...
the second time the damn thing cracked in a couple of places and wouldn't shift above 6K. GM quality FTW!
![](https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/18487098/PPFail2.jpg)
![](https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/18487098/PPFail3.jpg)
#1823
10 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Now I'm not saying there isn't anything wrong with your hydraulics. But if they are right then it's the pp for sure if it's rpm related.
Atleast from my experience.
Go out there put it in gear on level ground. Rev it up to 6k and see if you can feel the clutch drag. Mine would actually move my car a little. Do a few quick clean out type revs too.
Atleast from my experience.
Go out there put it in gear on level ground. Rev it up to 6k and see if you can feel the clutch drag. Mine would actually move my car a little. Do a few quick clean out type revs too.
#1829
10 Second Club
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Now I'm not saying there isn't anything wrong with your hydraulics. But if they are right then it's the pp for sure if it's rpm related.
Atleast from my experience.
Go out there put it in gear on level ground. Rev it up to 6k and see if you can feel the clutch drag. Mine would actually move my car a little. Do a few quick clean out type revs too.
Atleast from my experience.
Go out there put it in gear on level ground. Rev it up to 6k and see if you can feel the clutch drag. Mine would actually move my car a little. Do a few quick clean out type revs too.
whatever it is, it's a common issue with the gt's and bosses. especially on the 1-2 shift.
#1831
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
^^^^^^That's the problem
That's a pp issue. Fingers suck in, hyraulic release bearing can't release the clutch completely. Shifting gets notchy or you just start missing gears. It usually starts as missing 4th. Then it gets weak enough it moves back to 3rd. It can depend on gear ratio to because it's the sustained high rpm that messes it up.
He's very scorned.
Their good engines.
The spacer is a crutch. I'm not so sure it don't aggravate the problem by pushing the pp to far. We've spaced them up before and it would work for a while but once the pp gets stressed to the point the fingers loose their pressure it's done.
I broke my original clutch too. It took a good beating though.
That's a pp issue. Fingers suck in, hyraulic release bearing can't release the clutch completely. Shifting gets notchy or you just start missing gears. It usually starts as missing 4th. Then it gets weak enough it moves back to 3rd. It can depend on gear ratio to because it's the sustained high rpm that messes it up.
He's very scorned.
Their good engines.
The spacer is a crutch. I'm not so sure it don't aggravate the problem by pushing the pp to far. We've spaced them up before and it would work for a while but once the pp gets stressed to the point the fingers loose their pressure it's done.
I broke my original clutch too. It took a good beating though.
#1832
10 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I don't care about 60' much stoppy. I've said this before. I also went 11.5 before I ever ran the car on a dr. I've never raced anyone for just 60' and I don't have a bracket car. My clutch was not the hold up an my 60 anyway. Since your car is so great you should've run it on your nitto's. Then we coulda compared our 60'......but YOU pussed out on that.
Now go compare your mid 12 sec sub 110 mach with someone else.
Hopefully that will fix it for ya. The thing is if it disengages enough to be put in gear easily then the hydraulics are working right. If it a high rpm none disengagement then that leads me to think clutch. I have see this on new clutches before also. I have also seen the pedal stick to the floor on linkage clutches which is also pp related. That's assuming everything else is in working order.
Last edited by HioSSilver; 05-02-2013 at 10:10 PM.
#1834
10 Second Club
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
the 5.0's do it right from new. not all, but common. the harder you drive the car the sooner you'll notice it. the worst culprit is the 1-2 shift at redline. if you ram the gear it grinds, if you take the extra 1\2 second to shift it goes in fine.
#1836
10 Second Club
#1839
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
lol.....so far in this thread I'm about the only in here w/o clutch problems.
More talking out your ***. My million dollar exotic clutch was pieced together with used(free) and a few new pieces. Ran it off used free discs for years....lol I've got a hole $600-700 in it. Then I can get new discs and plates for about $400.....I gots me some high dolla **** yo!!!!
I don't care about 60' much stoppy. I've said this before. I also went 11.5 before I ever ran the car on a dr. I've never raced anyone for just 60' and I don't have a bracket car. My clutch was not the hold up an my 60 anyway. Since your car is so great you should've run it on your nitto's. Then we coulda compared our 60'......but YOU pussed out on that.
Now go compare your mid 12 sec sub 110 mach with someone else.
Seems strange. Do they have a slave or a hydraulic release bearing?
Hopefully that will fix it for ya. The thing is if it disengages enough to be put in gear easily then the hydraulics are working right. If it a high rpm none disengagement then that leads me to think clutch. I have see this on new clutches before also. I have also seen the pedal stick to the floor on linkage clutches which is also pp related. That's assuming everything else is in working order.
More talking out your ***. My million dollar exotic clutch was pieced together with used(free) and a few new pieces. Ran it off used free discs for years....lol I've got a hole $600-700 in it. Then I can get new discs and plates for about $400.....I gots me some high dolla **** yo!!!!
I don't care about 60' much stoppy. I've said this before. I also went 11.5 before I ever ran the car on a dr. I've never raced anyone for just 60' and I don't have a bracket car. My clutch was not the hold up an my 60 anyway. Since your car is so great you should've run it on your nitto's. Then we coulda compared our 60'......but YOU pussed out on that.
Now go compare your mid 12 sec sub 110 mach with someone else.
Seems strange. Do they have a slave or a hydraulic release bearing?
Hopefully that will fix it for ya. The thing is if it disengages enough to be put in gear easily then the hydraulics are working right. If it a high rpm none disengagement then that leads me to think clutch. I have see this on new clutches before also. I have also seen the pedal stick to the floor on linkage clutches which is also pp related. That's assuming everything else is in working order.
I think like you mentioned that the pressure plate is not holding well enough at 6000+ rpm shifts. The McLeod is built to live there in that range. It is pretty stout dual disc design. Plus I will be running the Mcleod steel flywheel.. so should have less rpm drop between shifts, and help a little more on the launch. Crossing my fingers anyway.
BTW, it shift perfect during normal driving. Everynow and then I get that "double notch" shifting into 2nd gear.. but not every time
#1840
Banned
iTrader: (3)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
My friends actually going through the same issue with his clutch setup he has a 98 though. His car loses pressure if he holds it down the clutch pedal for too long and he has to refill the fluid every so often. My car (knock on wood) has never had this issue. Its an 02 though.
Luckily he's getting a monster stage 2 clutch/lightweight flywheel and 01-02 OEM master, were gonna do the drill mod on it.
Luckily he's getting a monster stage 2 clutch/lightweight flywheel and 01-02 OEM master, were gonna do the drill mod on it.
Last edited by adamantium; 05-02-2013 at 11:26 PM.