Wipers stay on no matter what?!?!
08-11-2005, 04:33 PM
#1
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Wipers stay on no matter what?!?! I have a '98 TA and I figured someone on here might have run into this problem or know what may cause it. My wipers stay on continously no matter what. it does go to high speed when I put it in that position but in low, intermittent, and "supposed to be" off it stays at the low speed. The only way I could get them to stop is to pull the fuse in the block on the drivers side dash panel.
I've had more than my share of the "common" problems to these cars I've pulled the fuses on the headlight motor (while in the up position
) due to the pass side moter gear being stripped. pulled the fues to the power antenna (grinds at the bottom and doesn't go all the way down 
) and I need to replace the pass power window motor 
Slowly but surely I'm taking care of the problems in order of urgency. I recently installed a very nice AMW (Accurate Machine Works) catch can for the PVC system to try and cut back on oil being sucked into the intake because it was the most pressing problem causeing it to blow smoke at high RPM's and fouling plugs. Now this wiper issue has jumped to the top of the list so I've got to get it taken care of. Luckily I live in Texas for now and it doesn't rain much but ita a P.I.T.A. to get out in the rain and try and get a fuse in place with the door wide open just so the wipers work.
Any help is greatly appriciated!
John
I've had more than my share of the "common" problems to these cars I've pulled the fuses on the headlight motor (while in the up position
) due to the pass side moter gear being stripped. pulled the fues to the power antenna (grinds at the bottom and doesn't go all the way down ) and I need to replace the pass power window motor Slowly but surely I'm taking care of the problems in order of urgency. I recently installed a very nice AMW (Accurate Machine Works) catch can for the PVC system to try and cut back on oil being sucked into the intake because it was the most pressing problem causeing it to blow smoke at high RPM's and fouling plugs. Now this wiper issue has jumped to the top of the list so I've got to get it taken care of. Luckily I live in Texas for now and it doesn't rain much but ita a P.I.T.A. to get out in the rain and try and get a fuse in place with the door wide open just so the wipers work.
Any help is greatly appriciated!
John
08-11-2005, 10:07 PM
#2
TECH Veteran
Have you tried the 'flip the gear' temporary-fix for the headlight motor yet? 
As for the wipers, here's the testing procedure:
Sorry it's not more straightforward!
As for the wipers, here's the testing procedure:
Wipers Always On
1. Set the ignition switch to RUN. Set the wiper switch to OFF. Disconnect the wiper/washer switch connector C215. Does the wiper keep running? If yes, go to step 5. If no, go to step 2.
2. Check for a short to voltage in the pigtail wires to the wiper/washer switch. Is a short to voltage present? Yes: step 4. No: step 3.
3. Replace the wiper/washer switch.
4. Repair the short to voltage in the pigtail wires to the wiper/washer switch.
5. Measure the voltage from connector C215 (vehicle side), terminal E, to ground with a DMM. Is the measurement greater than 1.0 V? Yes: step 12. No: step 6.
6. Measure the voltage from connector C215 (vehicle side), terminal F, to ground with a DMM. Is the measurement greater than 1.0 V? Yes: step 10. No: step 7.
7. Reconnect the wiper/washer switch connector C215. Disconnect the wiper motor connector. Measure the voltage from wiper motor connector, terminal C, to ground with a DMM. Is the measurement within 10.5 - 15 V? Yes: step 8. No: step 9.
8. Repair the short to voltage in CKT 92.
9. Replace the wiper motor cover.
10. Reconnect the wiper/washer switch connector C215. Disconnect the wiper motor connector. Measure the voltage from wiper motor connector, terminal E, to ground with a DMM. Is measurement greater than 1.0 V? Yes: step 11. No: step 9.
11. Repair the short circuit to battery voltage condition in CKT 112.
12. Reconnect the wiper/washer switch connector C201. Disconnect the wiper motor connector. Measure the voltage from wiper motor connector, terminal D, to ground with a DMM. Is the measurement greater than 1.0 V? Yes: step 13. No: step 9.
13. Repair the short to voltage in CKT 113.
1. Set the ignition switch to RUN. Set the wiper switch to OFF. Disconnect the wiper/washer switch connector C215. Does the wiper keep running? If yes, go to step 5. If no, go to step 2.
2. Check for a short to voltage in the pigtail wires to the wiper/washer switch. Is a short to voltage present? Yes: step 4. No: step 3.
3. Replace the wiper/washer switch.
4. Repair the short to voltage in the pigtail wires to the wiper/washer switch.
5. Measure the voltage from connector C215 (vehicle side), terminal E, to ground with a DMM. Is the measurement greater than 1.0 V? Yes: step 12. No: step 6.
6. Measure the voltage from connector C215 (vehicle side), terminal F, to ground with a DMM. Is the measurement greater than 1.0 V? Yes: step 10. No: step 7.
7. Reconnect the wiper/washer switch connector C215. Disconnect the wiper motor connector. Measure the voltage from wiper motor connector, terminal C, to ground with a DMM. Is the measurement within 10.5 - 15 V? Yes: step 8. No: step 9.
8. Repair the short to voltage in CKT 92.
9. Replace the wiper motor cover.
10. Reconnect the wiper/washer switch connector C215. Disconnect the wiper motor connector. Measure the voltage from wiper motor connector, terminal E, to ground with a DMM. Is measurement greater than 1.0 V? Yes: step 11. No: step 9.
11. Repair the short circuit to battery voltage condition in CKT 112.
12. Reconnect the wiper/washer switch connector C201. Disconnect the wiper motor connector. Measure the voltage from wiper motor connector, terminal D, to ground with a DMM. Is the measurement greater than 1.0 V? Yes: step 13. No: step 9.
13. Repair the short to voltage in CKT 113.
08-11-2005, 11:25 PM
#3
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DUDE!!!! 
Anymore straight forward and the post would fix it for me
I'm in the Air Force and all of our Tech manuals are written pretty much along those lines to its' a piece of cake to follow for me.
your help is greatly appriciated.
The headlight motor ... well I've just been a lazy a$$ and it works with them up all the time .. just throws the "looks" off a tad. I plan on getting the brass gear and modding both motors at once
Does it say anything about the power antenna problem (other than R & R the antenna motor assy?)
Anymore straight forward and the post would fix it for me
I'm in the Air Force and all of our Tech manuals are written pretty much along those lines to its' a piece of cake to follow for me.
your help is greatly appriciated.
The headlight motor ... well I've just been a lazy a$$ and it works with them up all the time .. just throws the "looks" off a tad. I plan on getting the brass gear and modding both motors at once
Does it say anything about the power antenna problem (other than R & R the antenna motor assy?)
08-11-2005, 11:35 PM
#4
TECH Veteran
Originally Posted by joe_kool315
DUDE!!!!
Anymore straight forward and the post would fix it for me
I'm in the Air Force and all of our Tech manuals are written pretty much along those lines to its' a piece of cake to follow for me.
Anymore straight forward and the post would fix it for me
I'm in the Air Force and all of our Tech manuals are written pretty much along those lines to its' a piece of cake to follow for me.
Fortunately you have the experience for this to be easy
your help is greatly appriciated.
The headlight motor ... well I've just been a lazy a$$ and it works with them up all the time .. just throws the "looks" off a tad. I plan on getting the brass gear and modding both motors at once
Does it say anything about the power antenna problem (other than R & R the antenna motor assy?)
"Action: Turn the radio off.
Normal result: The power antenna mast retracts into the fender.
To correct abnormal result: Power Antenna Motor Replacement"
08-11-2005, 11:37 PM
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too bad you're way the heck down at the gulf ... I've got quite a few things I'd like to tackle (or pay someone to tackle for me) main thing right now is the still blowing out black smoke at high RPM's. I've had a compression check and leakdown test done and all checks out good. I recently installed that catch can I talked about earlier and that helpd some but I think it may be leaking through the valve stem seals or something. I've wanted to have a head cam package done for the past ... well 2 years but finances never panned out to where I could so I just put it off. now my oil pressure is starting to dip in the heat of the day (stays above the 20 hash mark at idle but just barely sometimes when hot) so I had planned on getting the bal/blue printed oil pump and double roller timing chain all done with the cam and stuff. up here in hick town ... no really not that bad but just not set up to deal with true high performance cars like these (unless you call a fox body with a $500 junk yard body and a $5+K motor runnin juice high performance )
)
08-12-2005, 12:13 AM
#6
TECH Veteran
Originally Posted by joe_kool315
too bad you're way the heck down at the gulf ... I've got quite a few things I'd like to tackle (or pay someone to tackle for me) main thing right now is the still blowing out black smoke at high RPM's. I've had a compression check and leakdown test done and all checks out good. I recently installed that catch can I talked about earlier and that helpd some but I think it may be leaking through the valve stem seals or something. I've wanted to have a head cam package done for the past ... well 2 years but finances never panned out to where I could so I just put it off. now my oil pressure is starting to dip in the heat of the day (stays above the 20 hash mark at idle but just barely sometimes when hot) so I had planned on getting the bal/blue printed oil pump and double roller timing chain all done with the cam and stuff.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/206287-effects-no-pcv-system.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/327796-catch-can-some-install-pics.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/124929-ls1-ls6-pcv-conversion.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/237493-excessive-crankcase-pressure-help.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/211174-fabricating-pcv.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/2229-oil-catch-can.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/136592-unbelievable-question.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/301994-pcv-mod-question.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/329268-oil-manifold.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/284873-ls6-valley-cover-what-difference.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/311088-anyone-block-off-pcv-tube-using-amw-can.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/new-ls1-owners-newbie-tech/187518-what-best-pcv-system-mod.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/190128-race-car-pcv-setups.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/261893-what-s-best-remedy-pcv-oil-sucking-problem.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/344763-oil-consumption-detonation-related.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....9&postcount=11
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/212644-pcv-mod.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/327968-crap-valve-cover-pcv-issues.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/166648-catch-can-idea-whatta-ya-think.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-maintenance-repairs/107538-smoke-wot.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/61881-should-i-concerned-about-these-filthy-intake-runners-pics-inside.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/181894-1500-miles-amw-catch-can.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/249069-oil-all-over.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-maintenance-repairs/91436-strange-sound-when-accelerating-hard.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/257884-burning-oil-after-headers.html
up here in hick town ... no really not that bad but just not set up to deal with true high performance cars like these (unless you call a fox body with a $500 junk yard body and a $5+K motor runnin juice high performance )
)
08-14-2005, 02:14 PM
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Ok here's an odd twist to the problem ... I went to put in the fuse to start troubleshooting and the wipers reset and went in the "off" position 
weii I figured all was good but it was raining that day and I used the wipers. When I came back out from where I was at I had left the wipers on and they were running when I cranked up the car. cut them off and they still run ... WTF!!! anyway I pulled the fuse again untill I could get home and put the fuse in @ home and they rest to off again!?!? it seems if I cut the car off with the wipers on it does something to a relay somewhere (sticking maybe) and pulling the fuse (and driving and bumping around) seems to jar it lose.
I know from experiance that "intermittent" problems are a P.I.T.A. to track down so I figured I'd run it by you and see if it might ring a bell somewhere.
Yea I'm about 2 hours from Dallas, in fact I had my spec stage 3 (xpad 6 puck) put in ... RPM motorsports in Denton if memory serves ... when I first got out here from South Carolina. Right now it's my only transportation so I can have it down for more than a weekend. We're looking at getting another car or truck soon so depending on the financial situation that might be feasable but for now I'll have to put up with it.
I've read "most" all the fixes for the oil thing in the past (not new here but haven't been on in 2 1/2 years or so, so I guess my ID dropped out
) and I've been on "the other site" for a while too. thats' why I researched the catch can thing and installed it. Kind of a neat install I put it up by the battery under the hood support so it looks clean. Sucks to drain and get to but I can live with it. I'll look through the links you gave me and see if there's anything new though.
weii I figured all was good but it was raining that day and I used the wipers. When I came back out from where I was at I had left the wipers on and they were running when I cranked up the car. cut them off and they still run ... WTF!!! anyway I pulled the fuse again untill I could get home and put the fuse in @ home and they rest to off again!?!? it seems if I cut the car off with the wipers on it does something to a relay somewhere (sticking maybe) and pulling the fuse (and driving and bumping around) seems to jar it lose. I know from experiance that "intermittent" problems are a P.I.T.A. to track down so I figured I'd run it by you and see if it might ring a bell somewhere.
Yea I'm about 2 hours from Dallas, in fact I had my spec stage 3 (xpad 6 puck) put in ... RPM motorsports in Denton if memory serves ... when I first got out here from South Carolina. Right now it's my only transportation so I can have it down for more than a weekend. We're looking at getting another car or truck soon so depending on the financial situation that might be feasable but for now I'll have to put up with it.
I've read "most" all the fixes for the oil thing in the past (not new here but haven't been on in 2 1/2 years or so, so I guess my ID dropped out
) and I've been on "the other site" for a while too. thats' why I researched the catch can thing and installed it. Kind of a neat install I put it up by the battery under the hood support so it looks clean. Sucks to drain and get to but I can live with it. I'll look through the links you gave me and see if there's anything new though. Trending Topics
08-14-2005, 04:22 PM
#8
I believe proper diagnostics will likely lead to wiper module replacement. That is the little circuit board that bolts to the wiper motor. I work at a GM dealer and that is what gets replaced for your condition about 99% of the time. I would follow the excellent diag chart above however just to make sure. The switches almost never go bad as they are about a 30 year old tried & true design. If the switch was bad usually they just will not work at all. My 2 cents FWIW... 
